There's something supremely decadent about lounging in a deck chair and wiping your brow with a lemongrass–infused warm face washer while your host hands you a platter of scrumptious hors d'oeuvres accompanied by a cleansing ale.
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Heck, you'd struggle to receive this sort of treatment at a five star city hotel, let alone at a remote campground on the Wilderness Coast, south of Eden.
In fact, I must admit I feel a little uncomfortable that while I indulge in my three-course fire-side dinner lovingly prepared by my hosts, Jenny and Arthur Robb, that a couple at the campsite behind us struggle valiantly to set-up their camp. Cursing while fumbling blindly for tent poles in the dark, the young man's female acquaintance nags incessantly "hurry up the two-minute noodles are boiling over".
Let's just hope the novice campers don't peer into my tent or their frustration may escalate. Expertly erected by the Robbs while I was stepping out along the first stage of the Light to Light Track with fellow trekkers Des and Kerry Cleary, it's complete with LED lighting, a small mirror, and bedside table. Next to my bed, a sturdy cushioned camp stretcher topped with a thick mattresses with internal memory, is a complimentary pack of pure herbs shampoo, conditioner and moisturizer for use in the hot shower located in the purpose-built ensuite tent.
Pampered is not usually a word associated with camping but that's exactly what this is, and I'm loving it. But don't get me wrong, just because we are bunking down in relative opulence doesn't mean we miss out on those essential elements of sleeping outdoors that we all love including, of course, tales around the camp fire.
While chat begins with reflections on the day's 13 kilometre hike along the dramatic coast from Boyds Tower and the fate of Des' treasured hat which was blown into a sea cave, it doesn't take long before talk turns to things that go bump in the night, including, the Dooligah, a yowie type creature firmly entrenched in the stories of local Indigenous peoples.
While never eye-balling one of these fabled hairy men of the bush, Arthur isn't prepared to rule out their possible existence. "Who knows what's out there, this is certainly a wild part of the coast," he explains before regaling us with yarns of "whales rubbing against rocks to remove their barnacles". It's true. Really it is!
It's hard to tear ourselves away from the glowing embers of the fire and it's only after Jenny reminds us we've got another two days "on the track" that we eventually snuggle into our crisp white percale sheet-lined sleeping bags, and to the calming sound of palm fronds swaying in the breeze nod off to sleep.
Morning breaks early and after a leisurely breakfast, leaving the Robbs to pack-up, with a spring in our step we embark on day two of our three day adventure.
Unlike yesterday, when we coyly eyed each other off at the track-head, this morning, as I follow Des and Kerry down the path, we chat as if we are besties.
Today, it's like a choose-your-own-adventure along a 9 kilometre stage in which terrain and vegetation change at every turn. One diversion leads through a paperbark tunnel to a hidden oasis of palm trees while another leads along a cliff where we sit perched atop a ledge and watch a breaching whale on its annual migration north to warmer waters.
The air temperature, in the low 20s, is perfect for winter walking and we are surprised we don't see another single soul all day. "The wonder of the landscape is more powerful when you have it all to yourself," remarks Des, and with no one else around, the ancient coast seems to magically belong to just the three of us. We revel in having the time to explore and when, late mid-afternoon we amble into beautiful Bittangabee Bay campground, we are feeling blessed.
After another night treated in our five star canvass hotel, it's with more than a pang of sadness that we strap on our day packs for our last day on the track, the relative short 8 kilometre ramble to Green Cape Lightstation.
While traversing the heath we keep our eyes peeled for the elusive and rare Eastern Ground Parrot but without doubt, the highlight on this last stage of the trek is the aptly-named Pulpit Rock. Backed by the lush green forest and fringed by sapphire coloured-waters this formidable rock ledge is a geologist's dream. While Kerry and I 'make-out' various faces in giant slabs of rock which hold up one side of the pulpit, Des is drawn to a razorback rock-feature on a rock overhang, which on first glance he reckons "is embedded with the fossilised backbone of some denizen of the deep". Geologists will try to convince you that it's actually a quartz-filled gash vein, created as a result of folding action in the sedimentary rock but I prefer Des' explanation.
Apparently the depth of water directly below the Pulpit is six fathoms. With a southerly buster blowing up the coast, and sea spray making it slippery underfoot, we aren't willing to hang around in case we find out first hand.
Despite quickening our strides to beat the cold change, we stop briefly at a cemetery which, hidden amongst the coastal scrub, apart from a small directional sign you'd unknowingly pass. It's the final resting spot for many victims of the Ly-ee-Moon which steamed onto the rocks near the Green Cape Lightstation on a stormy winter's night in 1886. Although 71 people lost their lives, only 24 bodies were recovered from the sea and they are buried in unidentified graves marked by white painted rocks.
Traipsing through one last tea tree tunnel, our three-day trek finally ends with a clamber up the 100-odd stairs to the top of the historic 1883 lightstation and its revolving dioptric holophotal Fresnal prisms. With the old light decommissioned in 1992 and replaced by a new steel framed tower located further toward the point, the windows of the original light station are now covered with heavy canvas curtains to prevent bushfires starting from magnification of the sun through the lens.
Braving the winds we scurry out onto the viewing deck. Looking north, we squint in vain through binoculars to see Boyds Tower — but its sandstone edifice is hidden well beyond the horizon. From our lofty vantage spot, we do, however, spot sea lions frolicking offshore and a white bellied sea-eagle circling majestically overhead, both reminders why this spectacular stretch of Ben Boyd National Park is also known as The Wilderness Coast.
Before the Robbs drive us back to civilisation and our cars parked in Eden, I request one last photo with Des and Kerry. It's at the sign marking the end of our 31 kilometre walk.
Back home, I compare the photo to a similar shot taken several day earlier when we set off our Light to Light adventure. You'd think after a three-day hike we'd be looking somewhat more frazzled than at the start. However, on close inspection we look much more relaxed and refreshed in the photo taken at the end of the walk.
I guess exploring such an inspiring coastal and landscape at your own pace, and camping in luxury will do that to you.
Although only a few months into their joint venture, the Robbs' Light to Light Camps are destined to become one of our region's iconic outdoor experiences.
Fact File
Trek in style: Light to Light Camps offer a range of fully-catered hikes between Boyds Tower and Green Cape. Walk in each evening to a luxury campsite, complete with dinner and hot shower. Divine! Ph: 0429 961 047 or web: www.lighttolightcamps.com.au Tailor-made for twosomes but can also accommodate singles or groups on requests.
Tim's Tip: If whale watching is your forte, book in for Light to Light Camps' special trek to coincide with the return migration of whales down the coast 10 – 13 November, 2017.
Did You Know: One of the victims of the Ly-ee-moon was Flora MacKillop – mother of Australia's first saint, Mary MacKillop.
Believe it or not: While beachcombing along The Wilderness Coast after our trek, Arthur Robb stumbled upon the very hat Des Cleary had lost several days earlier. What luck.
WHERE IN THE BRINDBAELLAS?
Clue: Inside our border, just.
Degree of difficulty: Easy- Medium
Last week: Congratulations to John Foster of Googong who was the first to correctly identify last week's photo as an Austin A40 on the eastern slopes of Mt Franklin which was used to operate a ski tow on the slalom run.
How to enter: Email your guess along with your name and address to timtheyowieman@bigpond.com. The first email sent after 10am, Saturday 8 July, 2017 with the correct answer wins a double pass to Dendy cinemas.
CONTACT TIM: Email: timtheyowieman@bigpond.com or Twitter: @TimYowie or write c/- The Canberra Times, 9 Pirie St, Fyshwick.