Until recently, unless you wanted to pitch a tent, there were very few places to bunk down in NSW national parks. However, following an initiative to enhance overall visitor experience, there are now more than 50 properties available for short-term stays. With the need to be close enough to Canberra for a weekend away as the main criteria, here are my top five.
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1. Royal Retreat
Historic Hill Top House, near Audley, Royal National Park (a three-hour drive north-east of Canberra).
This century-old heritage home was acquired by the parks service more than 20 years ago. Following a complete make-over earlier this year, its doors have been flung open for nature-lovers who appreciate the finer things in life.
Tucked away on a headland overlooking the sparkling waters of Port Hacking, this gracious old property is close to all the attractions of the Royal (as it has affectionately been known following Queen Elizabeth's visit in 1954). By day explore the wonders of this much-loved park; by night watch the lights of Sydney sparkle.
Suitable for: Sleeps a maximum of six in three bedrooms. It is ideal for three couples or a family with nanna and granddad in tow to keep an eye on the kids while mum and dad head off for a hike.
Highlights: If you can tear yourself away from the spectacularly positioned deck, you are only 10 minutes' drive from the park's HQ in Audley where there are expansive picnic grounds, a knock-out cafe and row boats to drift in, around the upper reaches of the Hacking River. Wannabe MasterChefs will be impressed with the well-appointed kitchen, complete with those all-important extra sharp knives (which are otherwise annoyingly difficult to find in most holiday homes) and somewhat fittingly, Royal Doulton dinnerware.
Cute critters: The resident kookaburra will laugh at you from the moment you arrive and fumble the fiddly padlock on the gate. Actually, try to get to bed early for a cacophony of the kookaburra's feathered friends will ensure you rise at dawn. Also keep your eyes peeled for deer – in 1906 seven rusa deer, native to Indonesia, were introduced to a compound just behind Hill Top for exhibition purposes. Soon after, they broke free of their enclosure, multiplied, and despite the best efforts by rangers to keep their numbers down, can now be spotted all over the park.
Wild walks: Spring is a great time to tackle the popular Coast Track from Bundeena to Otford and to admire the stunning heathland wildflowers on display. Complete the walk in small sections, or undertake the entire 26 kilometres over two days. There are more than a dozen other walks of shorter length and easier grades. Some lead to waterfalls, others to hidden beaches, and some, like the gentle historic carriage route of Lady Carrington Drive, are perfect for cycling (you can hire bikes if you forget your own).
Tim's tip: Bring the binoculars to spy on the birds from your lofty deck. If swimming, the beaches are unpatrolled so take care.
Don't miss: On the first Sunday of every month, more than a dozen artists who live in this park paradise open their studio and gallery doors to those exploring the "Art Trail" – a gentle bush walk that links the villages of Bundeena and Maianbar. Maps available from the Maianbar General Store or arttrail.com.au.
Did you know? Formally proclaimed in 1879, the Royal is the world's second oldest national park (after Yellowstone in the United States). Early managers exhibited a much different conservation philosophy to managers of today when they attempted to transform the natural environment into something more closely resembling the English landscape. They scrubbed and dredged the rivers and replaced native vegetation with ornamental shade trees. Swamps were even cleared to provide water for breeding swans imported from England.
What I'd change: The entire home and its wonderfully wide wrap around verandah are almost completely shaded from the north-western sun by leafy angophoras which means on cool days you may be reaching for your jumper (only the lounge room has a heater). However, in late spring and summer it's a bonus, for coupled with the prevailing sea breeze, you have a ready-made natural airconditioner.
How much? From $400 a night (minimum two-night stay).
2. Lakeside Lodge
Creel Lodge, Waste Point, Kosciuszko Road, Kosciuszko National Park (a 2½-hour drive from Canberra)
Don't let the unfortunate location name of this luxurious lodge deter you from enjoying a weekend here. This rustic retreat, built in the 1970s to house parliamentarians and VIPs visiting Kosciuszko National Park, is near the junction of the Snowy and Thredbo Rivers. It's perfect for anyone with a penchant for fishing, walking, and paddling.
Suitable for: With four bedrooms (each with their own en suites) sleeping a maximum of eight, this is tailor-made for four couples or an extended family getaway. The lodge has a large kitchen kitted out with all the mod cons and complete with two fridges, a commercial-size oven and enough crockery, cutlery and glassware to host a feast for King Arthur (those VIPS must have lived it up). There's a separate dining room with a 12-seat table (invite friends over for a dinner party) and an outdoor eating area, complete with wood and gas barbecues.
Highlights: The floor-to-ceiling windows facing north not only keep it toasty warm inside on those cool spring days, but also provide a stunning view of Lake Jindabyne and the snow-capped main range.
Cute critters: If you take overseas visitors they will get a real kick out of the kangaroos and wallabies which come right up to your backdoor. They may even lick your window.
Wild walks: You are on the doorstep of some of the best day hikes in Australia and spring is a great time for bushwalking as the wildflowers come into bloom in some areas and the days are not too hot.
Tim's tip: Don't forget the marshmallows to toast on the knockout outdoor fire chiminea (bring a bag of wood as you can't collect it from the national park). Tap water needs to be boiled for drinking.
Don't miss: The lodge has a small but well-selected library of books on the high country. So if you'd prefer to explore the snowies vicariously then open one and be inspired by the glacial lakes, alpine herb fields, spectacular caves and limestone gorges, the magnificent Snowy River and vast tracts of wilderness all a short drive from your lodge.
Did you know? The foundations of the original Creel Lodge in 1907 to house the workers who constructed the Mt Kosciuszko summit road, and which later became a famous fishing lodge, are now submerged under nearby Lake Jindabyne. The origins of that name Waste Point date back to when the low-lying area at the junction of the Thredbo and Snowy rivers was removed from a private holding and thoughtlessly referred to by surveyors as "waste". From then on, until it was submerged by Lake Jindabyne, it was called Waste Point.
What I'd change: Although the bathrooms are spacious and clean, they are only partially renovated and could be spruced up with new tiles; but at least there's plenty of hot water.
How much? From $295 a night (minimum two-night stay).
3. Bithry Beauty
Myer House, Bithry Inlet Road, Via Penders Road, Tanja, Mimosa Rocks National Park (a three-hour drive from Canberra).
If you are after an architecturally-designed beach house nestled into the secluded headland of one of our region's most dramatic national parks, a place where you can sunbake on your own palm-studded strip of sand, fish from your back step and snooze in luxury, then Myer House is for you.
When renowned architect Sir Roy Grounds spotted this dramatic parcel of land from the air in the mid-1960s, he immediately wanted a piece of it. Grounds teamed up with philanthropist and businessman Kenneth Myer (son of Sidney Myer of department store fame), and together they created a sanctuary on this site where they could escape the pressures and rigours of city life. Knighted in 1968 for his services to architecture, Grounds was a leading exponent of modernism in house design and contributed to a raft of groundbreaking architectural projects, including the National Gallery of Victoria and our own Shine Dome in Canberra. In 1976, Grounds and Myer donated their coastal haven, built from poles and rough-sawn boards milled on site, to the parks service and following the end of a long-term private lease, the parks service recently refurbished Myer House and made it available to the public.
Suitable for: Sleeping up to 12 people in four bedrooms, this is ideal for a couple of families or a group of friends to enjoy.
Highlights: Grounds was well-known for his experimental Australian style (fusing living and dining area) and this is reflected in the baronial style dining/living room which runs the entire length of the house and features two fireplaces, soaring roof and clerestory windows. Did I mention the absolute beachfront? Tumble out of bed and right onto the beach or enjoy a spot of tennis on your private court. Evenings, feast upon fresh Wapengo oysters while enjoying the sunset and a glass of champagne.
Cute critters: All the usual coastal suspects here including dolphins, whales, and wallabies. Also keep your eyes peeled for the long-nosed potoroo. About the size of a rabbit, it looks quite similar to a bandicoot, except it hops in a similar way to a kangaroo. The potoroo is nocturnal, so you are most likely to see them in the evening. Mimosa Rocks National Park is also an important stop for many migratory birds that nest along the park's coastline. Look along the beaches and rock platforms – you might see threatened hooded plovers or pied oystercatchers. Take a torch and the kids will enjoy spotlighting for possums and bandicoots straight from their bedroom windows.
Wild walks: There are marked coastal walks aplenty in Mimosa, but sometimes it's more fun just to go exploring – take an old pair of shoes and beachcomb to your heart's content.
Tim's tip: There is no mobile phone reception at the house. However, if you take a stroll up to the water tanks beyond the tennis court there are a few spots where you can access the Telstra network.
Don't miss: Taking pride of place on the top shelf of the house's extensive library is The Many Lives of Kenneth Myer (Sue Ebury, 2008) which even has the pages with references to his time at his south coast retreat tagged with post-it notes. There's nothing better than reading a book in a location where it is set, especially a biography - you feel as if you have a better understanding of some of the personalities.
Did you know? Ken Myer once turned down an offer from Gough Whitlam to become governor-general (it ended up going to John Kerr).
What I'd change: You can only book for an entire week which makes it hard if you are only after a weekend away.
How much? From $2350 a week (minimum seven-night stay). At first glance it might sound expensive, but if spread among 12 people it's less than $30 a night each for your very own coastal estate.
4. Cliff-top cottage
Green Cape Lightstation Keeper's Cottage, southern part of Ben Boyd National Park, near Eden (a four-hour drive from Canberra, the last 21 kilometres is on a 2WD accessible dirt road)
Perched on the edge of a peninsula overlooking Australia's wilderness coast are three beautifully-restored former keepers' cottages, each with open fireplaces and charming nautical decor.
Decorated in a distinctly nautical decor, this heritage hideaway isn't quite 5-star luxury, but it's comfortable enough. Along with a fully-equipped kitchen and dining and lounge rooms, each cottage has a verandah looking north which is ideal for enjoying the fresh (often very fresh) air and whale watching.
Suitable for: Each cottage sleeps up to six people. You can hire one cottage, or if you have a big group, book all three.
Highlights: You are staying at a lighthouse – that just about says it all, doesn't it. The kids will love the mozzie nets hanging over the beds. There's a grassy area enclosed by a colonial-style picket fence which was originally designed to give each keeper's family their "own space", but it comes in handy if you have kids because it keeps them away from the cliffs which are just a short kick of a ball or toss of the Frisbee away on the other side of the fence.
Cute critters: Watch mesmerised at the passing parade of sea critters including fur seals, whales, and dolphins. If you look skyward you might even spot a white-bellied sea eagle which is easily identified by its white tail and dark grey wings. These powerful birds of prey are known to mate for life, and return each year to the same nest to breed.
Wild walks: The 30-kilometre (one-way) Light to Light walk, one of our region's premier multi-day treks from Boyd's Tower to Green Cape, leaves right from your doorstep. There are also a number of short walking tracks which start at the lighthouse. One leads to a lookout at the tip of the cape where a rock scramble (or tumble, if you're not careful) takes you to the wreck of the Ly-ee-Moon (best viewed at low tide), while another leads to a sublimely positioned picnic table overlooking Disaster Bay.
Did you know? The Ly-ee-Moon steamed onto the rocks near the lighthouse on a winter's night in 1886. Although 71 people lost their lives, only 24 bodies were recovered from the sea and they are buried in unidentified graves marked by white painted rocks not far along the Light to Light track. One of the victims of the Ly-ee-moon disaster was Flora McKillop – mother of Australia's first saint, Mary McKillop.
Tim's tip: There's no television and very little, if any, mobile phone reception (try the lookout). It's a long drive to the nearest shop, so ensure you have all your supplies before you arrive. Beware the tiger snake in the wood heap – keep your distance and it won't worry you.
Don't miss: The original light has been decommissioned and replaced by a modern light adjacent to the lighthouse, but a tour of the lighthouse – free if you are staying at the cottages – is still an enlightening (no pun intended) experience. While at the top, check-out the heavy canvas curtains which prevent bushfires starting from magnification of the sun through the lens.
What I'd change: How amazing would it be to stay in the actual lighthouse? All those stairs (I dare you to count them) and allowing for tours would make it logistically difficult, if not impossible, but imagine waking up to that view from the top. Wow!
How much? Green Cape Lightstation Keeper's Cottage - From $250 a night (minimum two-night stay).
5. Mountain Manor
Yarrangobilly Caves House, northern edge of Kosciuszko National Park (a three-hour drive from Canberra)
Cave tourism peaked in Australia mid-last century. However. the recent revamp of Caves House provides an opportunity for a new generation to discover the charm and wonder of our subterranean world.
After spending the day underground, revel in the wonder of a bygone era in your own lovingly restored, self-contained wing, or individual room, of the 1917 heritage building.
Suitable for: Perfect for conferences, family gatherings and romantic getaways.
Highlights: Watching all the day trippers leave for their three-hour drive home while you sit in front of the fire and pour another drink.
Cute critters: There's wallabies around and platypus in the river and if you are lucky you might catch a glimpse of Harley, the resident wombat who was orphaned about 20 years ago as a baby and bottle fed by staff. He likes to chew on boots so make sure you don't leave yours on the verandah. Beware of the cave crickets – real-life troglodytes lurking in the caves.
Wild walks: Within the caves precinct are a number of spectacular walks of various length and difficulty from gentle strolls along the river to more strenuous cliff-top hikes. One will take you to Yarrangobilly's (20 metres long and 2½ metres deep) thermal pool which is a constant 27 degrees all year round.
Tim's tip: There are a number of caves to marvel at, but a standout is Jillabenan, which, at estimated age of 2 million years, is widely-regarded by speleologists (those boffins who study caves) as one of the most beautiful in Australia. The decorations here are so dense it's almost suffocating. You have to duck and weave your head so as not to be poked in the eye by an over-zealous stalactite or stalagmite. (Remember, stalactites have to hold on tight, so they don't fall off...)
Don't miss: The pulley to ring the old bell, which during the caves' heyday early last century, was rung five minutes prior to tours, is hidden in the old ticket box on the lower-side of Caves House. I bet you can't ring it just once (and don't let anyone know where you found out about it).
Did you know? Completely renovated in 2012, the 1917 section of Caves House has won several awards including the 2013 Heritage Award for Conservation - Built Heritage Government and Corporate and the Australian Institute of Architects - 2014 Heritage Conservation Architecture Award - Architectural Projects
What I'd change: Sure, they reduce the threat of an accidental fire, but it would add even more to the romantic atmosphere of this grand old building if the fireplaces were wood-burning instead of gas.
How much? From $140 a night (minimum two-night stay).
Park escapes
To book any of the properties featured in this article along with more than 50 other hard roof properties in NSW National Parks, go to: nationalparks.nsw.gov.au or call 13000 PARKS (1300 072 757).