I've noticed an alarming trend. If it is not bad enough that we must endure fresh fish sold to us without the moisture and flavour giving skin (and bones), pancetta now comes without the fat! Lean pancetta is an oxymoron; at least it used to be. We’ve become so hysterical about fat that we are demanding pancetta that is only half itself. It’s like asking for salt and vinegar chips without the salt.
The point about pancetta is that it has fat. The best pancetta for cooking is pork belly that has been rolled and cured. The fat is throughout, in a nice spiral. When you grill pancetta, much of the fat melts away but it helps to crisp up the meaty part and gives it delicious flavour. When diced, pancetta will cook in its own fat without need to add oil to the pan.
My moment of forgetfulness turned to incredulity when I purchased replacement pancetta for the beautifully fatty slices that were languishing in the home fridge. The pancetta on offer at the nearest store was a neat block of meat (looked rather like the loin) with a wafer thin strip of token fat along one edge. Even more disturbing was the news that this version of ‘pancetta’ was popular with customers.
I wonder when the realisation will sink in that it is not fat that’s making us fat but rather over-eating, a lack of basic common sense and a sedentary lifestyle. Adding further to my unease was a newspaper article suggesting that in the fight against obesity, restaurant and prepared meals should come with a kilo joule count. Can’t we recognise a balanced diet anymore? Can’t we have a delicious restaurant meal that has all the yummy bits (and then take it easy at home for the next few days) without the nanny state finger wagging? It’s downright insulting. Bugger the night; let’s reclaim our right to enjoy fat.
As my act of defiance I finally got around to buying Canadian author Jennifer McLagan’s ‘Fat: An appreciation of a misunderstood ingredient’. Now there’s a book to snuggle up with.
When you make this tasty Italian style potato salad, you can enjoy your own act of defiance by going to your nearest deli and, in the loudest possible voice, asking for fatty pancetta please.
Italian style potato salad with red pepper & pancetta
12 baby new potatoes, boiled or steamed in their skins until tender
6 thin slices pancetta (rolled belly pork with fat), cut into strips
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
½ tsp dried chilli flakes
1 small red pepper, pith and seeds removed, cut into short strips
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp sherry vinegar (or good wine vinegar)
1 tsp salt flakes
ground black pepper
torn basil leaves
While the potatoes are cooking prepare the dressing.
In a non-stick fry pan, saute the onion, red pepper, pancetta and chilli in the olive oil. If you’ve used fatty pancetta you can use less oil. Lastly add the garlic and saute for another 30 seconds. Pour in the sherry vinegar and let bubble away for a few seconds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cut the potatoes into chunks and while still warm, pour over the dressing. Toss gently and let cool to room temperature without refrigeration. Just before serving, toss through the basil leaves.