This wonderful preserve was introduced to me by a good friend and it has graced the New Year ham, turkey or terrine ever since. The same good friend also introduced me (metaphorically speaking) to Jane Grigson (whose recipe this is) and she’s been my favourite cookery writer ever since. Jane has since departed this world but daughter Sophie continues the good work of telling people about good food.

Grigson’s ‘Fruit Book’ is my most precious possession. An old Penguin paperback, it is literally falling apart at the seams so I’m about to go in search of a newly published hard back. There is though something rather nice about the small print, absence of pictures and yellowing pages, and the sense of all those times I’ve looked through to find something good to do with, well apricots.

There’s something good in those pages to do with any fruit that you might have at hand. Grigson’s one shortcoming was in admitting mostly distaste for rhubarb, which I love. The rhubarb section is a bit light on, but that’s a minor quibble. Fruits are listed alphabetically in chapters, with enlightening, and at times humorous background information. The recipes include both sweet and savoury dishes. The section at the back with essentials like pastries, icings, sorbets and creams is extraordinarily useful; these recipes are trustworthy classics that you’ll use again and again.

The preserve is best made a month ahead so that the flavours mellow but apricots never seem to be at their best until a couple of weeks before the festive ham season starts. Try to make a couple of batches so you have some for a tasty pork terrine in the middle of winter.

Spiced apricots

1.5kg apricots, halved and stoned

2 cups caster sugar

1 cup white wine vinegar

1 cinnamon stick

8 clovers

2 star anise

Bring the sugar, vinegar and spices to boil in a large, wide saucepan. Slip in the apricot halves. Poach gently until just tender – about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and pack, cut side down in sterilised jars. Break up the cinnamon stick and star anise according to the number of jars you have filled. Distribute these spices among the jars along with the cloves.

Boil down the poaching liquid until it is syrupy. Top up the jars with the syrup. Run a sharp knife around the inside of the jar to dislodge any bubbles and seal. Store in a cool place out of sunlight.

Serve small portions as an accompaniment to ham, turkey, duck or goose and meat terrines of various styles.