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Corny, but it's good

Tex-Mex cuisine is a regional style of food that has developed in southern Texas. The term is also used to describe an Americanised Mexican style of food popular in the other parts of the United States. Chilli con carne is probably the best known Tex-Mex dish. It is often served with a bean salad, one of today's recipes. The term Tex-Mex was first used as a nickname for the Texas Mexican Railway in the 1800s.

As a regional cuisine, Tex-Mex has deep roots. It began in 1581 when Spanish colonists arrived in El Paso with their livestock. The local Tejano (Mexican) people were educated by Spanish missionaries and their foods mixed and combined. Among the indigenous foods were corn, pinto beans, pecans and chillies. The Spanish introduced a Berber influence with cumin, garlic and coriander.

Later, meat produced by the ranchers of the south Texas and northern Mexico became an important part of the cuisine. Although Tex-Mex cuisine is different to Mexican cuisine, many ingredients are common to both.

The corn pudding was originally native American fare. It is a comforting dish and easy to make. I like to serve it with a bean salad and an avocado and tomato salsa.

Three-bean salad is a retro salad from the 1970s, but I think it's time for a revival. It is colourful and nutritious and makes me think of barbecues in the summer.

One of the books I have used for reference is American Cooking, Foods of the World, by Dale Brown (Time-Life Books, 1979). This great series is worth seeking out.

You could leave the red pepper out of the pudding. Add 100g grated cheddar cheese if you like.

Serves 4-6

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped

1 small red pepper (capsicum), chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

4 free-range eggs

1 cup milk

14 cup self-raising flour

1 tsp sugar

sea salt

dash of Tabasco or a pinch of cayenne

3 cobs of corn or 1 x 310g can corn kernels, drained and 1 x 310g can creamed corn

Cook the cobs of corn in a large pan of boiling salted water for 15 minutes. When cobs are cool enough to handle cut off the kernels. You should have about two cups of kernels. Puree half of them in a food processor. Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease an ovenproof dish and dust with corn meal or dry breadcrumbs. Heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat and fry the onion, red pepper and garlic until soft. Beat the eggs with milk, flour and seasoning. Add in the fried vegetables and corn. Tip into the prepared dish. Bake in the oven until the pudding is set in the middle and golden. This should take 35-45 minutes. Allow it to settle for a few minutes. Serve with the three-bean salad.

Three-bean salad

You can use cans of mixed beans or other types of beans. Add some chopped chilli to the dressing if you like. This salad improves with standing and is better if made at least an hour ahead.

Serves 6-8

1 x 400g can of red kidney beans

1 x 400g can of cannellini or haricot beans

1 x 400g can of chickpeas

1 red or green pepper (capsicum), finely diced

1 red onion, finely chopped

1 bunch parsley, chopped

dressing

2 tbsp red-wine vinegar

5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine the dressing ingredients in a jar and shake well, taste to check the seasoning and adjust. Drain the beans and chickpeas and rinse with boiling water. Mix the warm beans with the dressing. Add the onion, pepper and parsley and mix together. Cover and chill.

Variations: Other types of beans can be added to this salad. Try it with a can of black beans or some cooked green beans cut into short lengths.

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Vegetarian Kitchen
Innovative and delicious vegetarian recipes served up each week by our Food and Wine columnist Diana Lampe.
Three-bean salad
Three-bean salad

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