Peter Gilmore of Quay, Sydney. Click for more photos

S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants 2010

Peter Gilmore of Quay, Sydney.

Sydney’s Quay restaurant is the 27th best restaurant in the world and Australia’s finest.

The restaurant, which debuted at No.46 last year, leaped 19 places to its new ranking on the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants awards, announced in London overnight.

Tetsuya’s was the only other Australian restaurant to make the top 50, dropping to No.38.

But two other restaurants - Marque of Sydney and Attica of Melbourne - were also picked at No.67 and No.73 respectively in the top 100, with Marque being honoured with the Restaurant Breakthrough Award.

Greg Doyle's Pier, which debuted in the top 100 at No. 94 last year, did not make it into the list this year.

Attica chef Ben Shewry said he was dumbfounded to learn his Ripponlea restaurant had been named the 73rd best in the world

‘‘I grew up in the real  back country in New Zealand, so it’s impossible to imagine anything like this happening. Just impossible. We’re just absolutely stoked. It’s kind of a dream come true,’’ he said.

‘‘For a small restaurant in the suburbs it seems like an impossibility, especially as we don’t have a (public relations) budget whatsoever.

‘‘To be on that list I guess is getting bigger and bigger and there’s a lot of importance put on it. But it seems when you’re cooking out in Australia it’s really hard to get on there. You can see that from the amount of Australians on there, there’s only four.’’

Peter Gilmore of Quay restaurant has long been recognised as one of Australia’s best.

The eatery has taken out the Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year title for four years in the past nine.

Famed Spanish restaurant elBulli lost its crown after four years at the top, beaten to the number one spot by rising star Noma in Copenhagen.

ElBulli's defeat is another blow for the eatery and its trailblazing chef, Ferran Adria, after he announced in January the venue would close for two years from 2012.

The 47-year-old chef put the decision to shut the restaurant on Spain's northeastern Catalan coast down to fatigue and a need to plan for the future.

But Adria, known for his avant-garde approach to cooking which uses hi-tech methods to "deconstruct" and rebuild ingredients in surprising ways, was still recognised at the British awards when he was named chef of the decade.

Danish restaurant Noma - voted best in the world by the panel of more than 800 international critics, journalists and food experts - serves up Nordic specialities in a converted 18th century shipping warehouse.

Headed by 32-year-old chef Rene Redzepi, it has become a favourite of gourmets worldwide for using seasonal and local ingredients to create dishes such as radishes in edible soil. It was number two in last year's list.

"Copenhagen is no longer the last stop on the gastronomic subway," said Britain's Restaurant Magazine, which organises the awards.

The 2010 awards, which were announced at the Guildhall in London, were notable for the abundance of new talent, according to the magazine.

"This year's list is an exciting one that highlights in particular the wealth of young, dynamic chefs bringing new ideas to the world of gastronomy," said magazine editor Paul Wootton.

"Rene Redzepi's rise to the top shows that the (judging panel is) keen to recognise this new wave of talent rubbing alongside those with more established international fame."

It remained to be seen whether Adria's "considerable achievements" in the awards -- elBulli came out on top a total of five times in the past decade -- could ever be matched in future, added Wootton.

British restaurant The Fat Duck outside London, run by chef Heston Blumenthal, took third place in this year's list.

Blumenthal and Adria have since the 1990s been at the forefront of efforts to use science to "deconstruct" and rebuild food, both astonishing diners and delighting reviewers.

Europe performed well in this year's list, with Spanish and Italian restaurants taking five of the top 10 spots.

The United States also had a strong showing, with three restaurants in the top 10.

Les Creations de Narisawa in Japan was named as the best restaurant in Asia, coming in at number 24 on the list.

Other surprises were Daniel (US chef Daniel Boulud) up 33 to 8, and The French Laundry (US chef Thomas Keller) down 20 to 32.

THE LIST

The S.Pellegrino World’s
50 Best Restaurants 2010

1 Noma Denmark (▲2) +45 3296 3297 noma.dk

2 El Bulli Spain (▼1) + 34 972 150 457 elbulli.com

3 The Fat Duck UK (▼1) +44 (0) 1628 580 333 thefatduck.co.uk

4 El Celler de Can Roca Spain (▲1)+34 972 22 21 57 cellercanroca.com

5 Mugaritz Spain (▼1) +34 943 522 455 mugaritz.comx

6 Osteria Francescana Italy (▲7) +39 (0)59 210 118 osteriafrancescana.it

7 Alinea USA (▲3) +1 312-867-0110 alinea-restaurant.com

8 Daniel USA (▲33) +1 212 288 0033 danielnyc.com

9 Arzak Spain (▼1) +34 943 78456 arzak.es

10 Per Se United States (▼4) +1212 823 9335 perseny.com

11 Le Chateaubriand France (▲29) +33 (0)1 43574595

12 La Colombe South Africa (▲26) + 27 (0) 21 794 2390 constantia-uitsig.com

13 Pierre Gagnaire France (▼4) + 33 01 58 36 12 50 pierre-gagnaire.com

14 Hotel de Ville Switzerland (▲2) +41 21 634 0505 philippe-rochat.ch

15 Le Bernardin USA (=) +1 212 554 1515 le-bernardin.com

16 L’Astrance France (▼5) +33 1 40 50 84 40 lastrance.abemadi.com

17 Hof van Cleve Belgium (▲9) +32 (0) 9 383 5848 hofvancleve.com

18 D.O.M. Brazil (▲6) +55 11 3088 0761 domrestaurante.com.br

19 Oud Sluis Holland (▲10) +31 (0) 117-461269 oudsluis.nl

20 Le Calandre Italy (▲29) +39 049 630303 alajmo.it

21 Steirereck Austria (▲9) +43 (1) 713 31 68 steirereck.at/wien restaurant

22 Vendome Germany (▲3) +49 (0) 22 04 42 1941 schlossbensberg.com

23 Chez Dominique Finland (▼2) + 358 9 612 7393 chezdominique.fi

24 Les Créations de Narisawa Japan (▼4)+81 (3) 5785 0799 narisawa-yoshihiro.com

25 Mathias Dahlgren Sweden (▲25) +46 (0) 8 679 35 84 mathiasdahlgren.com

26 Momofuku Ssam Bar USA (▲5) +1 212 254-3500 momofuku.com

27 Quay Australia (▲19)+ 61 (2) 9251 5600 quay.com.au

28 Iggy’s Singapore (▲17)+65 6732 2234 iggys.com.sg

29 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon France (▼11)+33 1 42 225656 joel-robuchon.com

30 Schloss Schauenstein Switzerland (New Entry) +41 81 632 10 80 schauenstein.ch

31 Le Quartier Francais South Africa (▲6) +27 21 876 2151 lequartier.co.za

32 The French Laundry USA (▼20) +1 707 944 2380 frenchlaundry.com

33 Martin Berasategui Spain (=) +34 943 366 471 martinberasategui.com

34 Aqua Germany (New Entry) +49 5361 606056 restaurant-aqua.com

35 Combal Zero Italy (▲7) +39 011 9565225 combal.org

36 Dal Pescatore Italy (▲12) +39 (0)37 672 3001 dalpescatore.com

37 De Librije Netherlands (New Entry) +31 (0)38 4212083 librije.com

38 Tetsuya’s Australia (▼21) +61 (2)9267 2900 tetsyuas.com

39 Jaan par Andre Singapore (New Entry) +65 6338 8585 swissotel.com/singapore-stamford

40 Il Canto Italy (New Entry) +39 (0)577 28 81 80 certosadimaggiano.com

41 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee France (Re-entry) +33 1 53 67 66 65 plaza-athenee-paris.com

42 Oaxen Krog Sweden (▼10) +46 8 8 551 531 05 oaxenkrog.se

43 St John UK (▼29) +44 020 7251 0848 stjohnrestaurant.com

44 La Maison Troisgros France (Re-entry) +33 4 77 71 66 97 troisgros.fr

45 wd~50 USA (Re-entry) +1 212 477 2900 wd-50.com

46 Biko Mexico (New Entry) +52 55 5282 0722 biko.com.m

47 Die Schwarzwaldstube Germany (▼24) +49 7442 4926 traube-tonbach.de

48 Nihonryori RyuGin Japan (New Entry) +81 3 3423 8006 nihonryori-ryugin.com

49 Hibiscus UK (New Entry) +44 020 7629 2999 hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk

50 Eleven Madison Park USA (New Entry) +1 212 889 090 elevenmadisonpark.com

The S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best
Restaurants 2010 - 51-100

51 Maison Pic France pic-valence.com

52 Jean Georges USA jean-georges.com

53 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon China joel-robuchon.com

54 Wasabi India tajhotels.com

55 Robuchon A Galera China joel-robuchon.com

56 Bras France michel-bras.com

57 De Karmeliet Belgium dekarmeliet.be

58 Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley UK the-berkeley.co.uk

59 Lung King Heen China fourseasons.com

60 Rouge Canada rougecalgary.com

61 Etxebarri Spain asadoretxebarri.com

62 Tantris Germany tantris.de

63 Akelarre Spain akelarre.net

64 GästeHaus Klaus Erfort Germany gaestehaus-erfort.de

65 Bo Innovation China boinnovation.com

66 Zuma London zumarestaurant.com

67 Marque Australia marquerestaurant.com.au

68 Restaurant Sant Pau Spain ruscalleda.com

69 Chez Panisse USA chezpanisse.com

70 Quique Dacosta Spain elpoblet.com

71 Ristorante Cracco Italy ristorantecracco.it

72 Pujol Mex pujol.com.mx

73 Attica Australia attica.com.au

74 Rust En Vrede South Africa rustenvrede.com

75 Varvari Russia anatolykomm.ru

76 La Grenouillère France lagrenouillere.fr

77 Langdon Hall Canada langdonhall.ca

78 Les Amis Singapore lesamis.com.sg

79 Can Fabes Spain canfabes.com

80 La Gazzetta France lagazzetta.fr

81 Plavi Podrum Croatia gastronaut.hr

82 The River Café UK rivercafe.co.uk

83 Mirazur France mirzazur.fr

84 Gunther’s Singapore gunthers.com.sg

85 Doce Uvas Russia doceuvas.ru

86 Manresa USA manresarestaurant.com

87 Enoteca Pinchiorri Italy enotecapinchiorri.com

88 Quintessence Japan quintessence.jp

89 JB Restavracija Slovenia jb-slo.com

90 Amber China mandarinoriental.com

91 Masa USA masanyc.com

92 Le Gavroche UK le-gavroche.co.uk

93 Café Pushkin Russia cafe-pushkin.ru

94 Semifreddo Russia semifreddo-restaurant.com

95 Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester UK alainducasse-dorchester.com

96 Cépage by Les Amis Hong Kong lesamis.com.sg

97 La Pergola Italy romecavalieri.it

98 Le Louis XV France alain-ducasse.com

99 Le Pré Catelan France precatelanparis.com

100 Amador Germany restaurant-amador.de

smh.com.au, theage.com.au and AFP