It can appal and sicken, literally. But for most who visit it India can cast a lifetime spell, writes Ben Stubbs.
Julietta Jameson Captain Cook Cruises has a 'take a mate for half price' sale on for MV Reef Endeavour trips.
Ben Stubbs braves the smog and crowds of Kolkata on the back of a Royal Enfield bike.
Chaotic and confronting, the city on the Hooghly can justly claim to be the country's cultural capital, writes Leisa Tyler.