Where did summer go? Melbourne, that's where

As the season draws to a close, Queensland and New South Wales may be asking where summer went. Danielle Cronin has the answer.

When Melbourne friends declare that their city can have four seasons in one day, it either sounds like an apology or a self-soothing mantra. Four different levels of freezing have little allure after living for more than a decade in Canberra. During that time, I soon realised that summer was a notion rather than a promise. Sometimes turning on the heater in December is essential just as it is in the middle of July.

Sure, Melbourne has many other attractive features, from the great food to the footy. The weather is the trade-off. So with a woollen vest and heavy scarf packed just in case, I caught a plane to the Victorian capital. These items proved to be excess baggage.

With Brisbane intent on recreating weather conditions routinely featured in a Bronte novel, Melbourne offered welcome respite from the rain. The southern capital was hot, damn hot ... scorching even. I had an overwhelmingly hankering for a barrel of rosé, a bottomless tankard of lemon, lime and bitters, and a packet of liquorice allsorts.

The latter was a by-product of staying at the Mercure Melbourne Treasury Gardens in a room decked out in black, charcoal, fuscia, pink, green and white. But the weather was far too hot to satisfy that sugar craving. The other two were partially sated at restaurants a short walk from the recently refurbished hotel.

Cumulus Inc is vibrant, loft-inspired restaurant where customers are encouraged to share dishes. I sat at the bar and watched chefs prepare plates of food ordered from the impressively tattooed and attentive waitress. The bar stools are a test for the vertically challenged diners and the position can leave some struggling with guilt, particularly on a steamy day. You feel part of the action without expelling any energy or perspiration while languidly downing slow-cooked octopus with aioli and dehydrated olives, and the Wagyu bresaola with Tarragon – two of many menu highlights.

A little further down the road is PM24, which is a more traditional establishment that serves up French fare with a healthier twist. It was recently dubbed one of Melbourne's “10 hot and new restaurants", which isn't exactly a selling point when the mercury exceeds 30 degrees. But it doesn't disappoint, with the rotisserie of the day and the king salmon with horseradish mousse and potato blinis firm favourites.

Both restaurants are less than 10 minutes walk from the Mercure, which is one of the key drawcards for the hotel. It is also close to Melbourne Park, home of the Rod Laver Arena where Novak Djokovic and Andy Murray waged an almost five-hour battle in the semi-final of the Australian Open ( Djokovic emerged as the victorious gladiator and went on to win the tournament, for those who missed it).

With an apology to fans who would have sold a kidney to get a ticket to the men's semi-final, I must confess that I was in the take-it-or-leave-it camp when it came to tennis. But spending an evening in the arena surrounded by a singing and chanting crowd who would lurch from their seats, stand up and applaud a hard-won point has changed my attitude. I'm eager to go again.

The tram stop is around the corner from the hotel offering the City Circle service that is ideal for first-time visitors and those overwhelmed by the complex public transport system (trams, trains, buses and bikes). The route takes in some of the major attractions, stopping near the Queen Victoria Market and Federation Square. The upside is that it's regular and free. The downside is that the trams can be packed, which means passengers must suffer from the lack of air-conditioning on a 38-degree day.

For those prepared for a 15 minute-plus walk or to fork out $10 for a taxi in a bid to take a breather from the heat, the National Gallery of Victoria is worth the effort. The current exhibition, The Mad Square: Modernity in German Art 1910-37, is an enthralling mix of photographs, sculpture, furniture and paintings, including works by Otto Dix and Max Beckmann. It rekindled my adoration for Dix fostered during a visit to Germany three years ago.

During my recent weekend in the city, one of its most enthusiastic backers was the suit-clad older driver who collected me from the airport. He declared that he had two wives – one is the beloved mother of his children, the other is Melbourne. The latter has been a life-long love affair. Despite the infernal rain, I'm not prepared to dump Brisbane. But I did enjoy the two-day flirtation with Melbourne and left frankly with a bit of a crush.

The writer was a guest of Tourism Victoria and Mercure Hotels.

FAST FACTS

Getting there

The major airlines run direct flights from Sydney and Brisbane to Melbourne.

Staying there

Mercure Melbourne Treasury Garden's privilege rooms have a generous bed and a pillow menu offering rubber, contoured, v-shaped and feather varieties. There is a compact bathroom, balcony, lounge-cum-daybed, internet connection, ipod docking station, coffee machine and mini-bar. Privilege rooms start from $255, with rooms from $150 for a City View Queen and from $195 for a Garden View King and from $255 for a Privilege Room with balcony. See www.accorhotels.com.

More information

The Mad Square: Modernity in German Art 1910-37 exhibition is on at the National Gallery of Victoria until March 4. See ngv.vic.gov.au for details.

Download the Play Melbourne iPhone app from iTunes. It's free and is pocket-sized guide to the city including restaurants, bars, cafes and boutiques or visit www.visitmelbourne.com