Anyone who grew up in the 1970s remembers Blue Nun riesling. Not that we were drinking it, well maybe stealing the occasional sip from our mother’s glass at a dinner party, while she was off in the kitchen preparing a prawn cocktail or something, but the tall, thin, blue bottle, with the nun on the label - was she Sally Field or Julie Andrews? - became synonymous, for many of us with the riesling variety.
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Which is why I’ve always had trouble with the Canberra International Riesling Challenge, now in its 19th year, for in my mind riesling has always been that terribly sickly sweet stuff.
But I’m always happy to be proved wrong.
Cameron Douglas is the chairman of judges for the 2018 challenge, it’s his first time judging the challenge, indeed his first visit to Canberra.
New Zealand based, he is one of the southern hemisphere’s leading wine experts, carrying the master sommelier credential as well as being an experienced judge, reviewer, wine writer and commentator.
“As much as we love our Baby Boomers,” he says, “they're the ones pushing the perpetual idea that riesling is sweet but I think that perception is changing and it’s due to some great wine makers.”
He lectures at the University of Auckland, teaching wine and beverage programs and at the end of each semester poses the question about varieties that are making people stop and revisit them.
“When we’re talking about white wines, in New Zealand I was expecting them all to say sauvignon blanc or chardonnay but time and again more and more people are talking about riesling.”
So what is it about this misunderstood variety?
“Wine makers cook it to the tease of sugar but not so much it makes the wine too sweet,” he says.
“There's that seesaw between acidity and sugar, without being sweet and sour, and a nice core of fruit. That's what makes riesling what it is.”
Douglas and the panel of 10 judges have their work cut out for them this week. A record number of entries has been received, with 567 wines from around the world up for tasting. The Canberra District has supplied 27, international entries are at 157, making it the largest collection of riesling ever put together in the southern hemisphere.
Judging continues until Thursday and the winners will be announced on Friday October 19. There is a masterclass being held on October 19 from 11am to 3pm at the Hotel Realm where experts, including Chinese judge Fongyee Walker, will guide participants through a range of rieslings from China and the Orange District. Tickets are $100.
On Saturday, October 20, there will be a public tasting at Albert Hall from 11am to 3pm. Tickets are $50. Bookings not required.
And if you see a bottle of Blue Nun let me know.
