One week David Learmonth is preparing school lunches for hundreds of kids, the next he’s cooking up a feast for 600-plus guests at the mid-winter ball. The executive chef of Parliament House oversees all seven kitchens in the bustling building, and prides himself and his staff on an ever-changing menu for visitors and members.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
$0/
(min cost $0)
or signup to continue reading
The staples include lamingtons, sausage rolls and ham and cheese sandwiches. These are some of the most popular items on the menu throughout the building including in the publicly-accessible Queen’s Terrace Cafe.
"You’re only as good as your last ham and cheese sandwich," Mr Learmonth said.
"Ham, cheese, tomato sandwich is the most popular thing in this building, we sell hundreds of them. So if it's not right, we're going to know about it."
Mr Learmonth has worked in Michelin-starred venues and hatted restaurants, for Arab sheikhs and "some of the wealthiest people in the world".
But to him, it’s the same job.
"My job is the wow factor, it’s the common goal. We’re really just trying to cater for someone as best we can."
Mr Learmonth started in the position in July 2017 when catering was brought in-house, and said he never imagined being a chef would lead him to the public service.
Growing up on the NSW Central Coast the youngest of three children, like many Aussies he fell in love with the beach and the bush. His passion for cooking comes from memories of watching his mother in the kitchen.
"My mum was a great cook. I’ve got two older sisters and they were useless, so mum always took that up with me. She could see I wanted to be busy with my hands most of the time, and that creativity. And I’d eat," he said.
"I knew as I grew up that I wanted to be a chef, I really enjoyed impressing people this way. I think I’m fortunate in my career to be able to tap in to that. I love it, so it comes easy."
Mr Learmonth said the art of learning new recipes and tapping into new ways of cooking is one thing he loves about the work.
"You’re never going to know it all. There are so many cultures, and just feeling that you’re only still just stepping into it and evolving and that’s never going to stop, there's no end to it. That’s why I’ve stayed with this career and I'll take it as far as I can."
Bringing this creativity to Parliament House has been a passion of Mr Learmonth’s, and he had a chance to showcase his talent at the mid-winter ball, to 660 guests.
The menu included an entree of labneh, beetroot, cauliflower florets, ancient grain, cranberry, seeds and nuts, and mains of steamed barramundi with kimchi puree, salted kombu, broccolini, petit bok choy, and lamb rump, piccalilli glaze, cauliflower, braised leek, puffed millet tabbouleh.
"The diversity of what we cater for and how we can change from a bistro meal to a cocktail party is something we're really proud of," he said.
He said it’s not always fancy; most of the time it’s a focus on the humble, like the staple sausage roll. At home, he said, the family favourite never changes. It’s always been Italian tomato pasta.
"That’s the sort of comfort food I’ll always go back to, to eat and I love cooking it as well. It’s therapeutic, watching the tomatoes cook. For my family, my kids, that’s always a winner."
Mr Learmonth is gearing up for Parliament House open day on October 6.
"We could be expecting over 10,000 people. It’s one of those things where you go, well just how many cupcakes do we want to make," he grins.
Visitors are encouraged to try the newly introduced high tea in the Queen’s Terrace Cafe, and Mr Learmonth said he hoped Canberrans could embrace the house as a brunch destination.
The open day will run from 9am to 5pm on Saturday, October 6. A free bus is available throughout the day, every 15 to 20 minutes from Parliament House, Government House, Floriade on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Regatta Point, Civic bus interchange and the Treasury Building park and ride.
