For many of us, it is a well-earned aperitif enjoyed at the end of the day, but according to a Queensland academic, Italian winemakers could be set to declare war on Australian companies offering their own brand of prosecco.
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Queensland University of Technology professor in intellectual property and innovation law, Matthew Rimmer, says the light, dry, sparkling wine will be a major test for “geographical indications”, or GIs, for food and wine under the proposed new Australia-European Free Trade Agreement.
A GI is a name or sign on products that corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin, and certifies that the product possesses certain qualities or enjoys a certain reputation, due to its geographical origin.
Australia has provided special protection for champagne and other European wine regions in the past. But with Italian prosecco producers shifting the wine’s name from one of a grape variety to one of geographical location, the future of the prosecco label on Australia wines is uncertain.
“Italy has indicated it wants a geographical indication for prosecco during the Australia-EU negotiation,” Professor Rimmer said.
“What’s very controversial about prosecco is that it’s a recent development in terms of its use of geographical location - it previously had the name of a grape variety.
“So, the Australian winemakers are very upset about that. They see it as a sleight of hand; a commercial claw-back to try to monopolise a very common name.
Professor Rimmer said there had been previous disputes over geographical indications in Australia.
“We’ve seen litigation in the past over the Australian GI boundaries, for example, in Coonawarra and the King Valley - as well as tension over other regions such as the Hunter Valley and the Margaret River.”
He added that Australia was determined to make the distinction between geographical indication, and the variety of other grapes or other foodstuffs.
“Federal Trade Minister Steven Ciobo has said while every effort would be made to maximise our access to the EU market, Australia would also seek GI outcomes that enable the use of grape variety names such as prosecco,” Professor Rimmer said.
“As federal opposition rural and regional Australia spokeswoman Lisa Chesters says: ‘What’s next? It would be the equivalent of you can no longer call pizza pizza.’
“The prosecco issue is one of the many skirmishes we could see if the EU seeks to expand the protection of GI to include a wider range of wine regions, as well as food and foodstuffs under the proposed new trade agreement.”
Professor Rimmer said Australia well understands the importance of protecting the branding of regional foods, and has a distinctive model in relation to geographical indication.
“We’re not as prescriptive as the EU,” he said. “It’s not just about the region the wine is made in, it’s also the methods of how you make wine.
“Cheese-makers have also been very concerned about the EU pushing for a more expansive agenda in terms of things like parmesan cheese and feta cheese.
“Australia has relied upon trademarks to protect regional food such as King Island cheese and beef, Beechworth honey and Bega cheese.
“I think Australian consumers care about what they drink and care about what they eat. So this is an issue that affects everyone who eats and drinks these products.”
