Authenticity: is it the genuine article?

By Damon Young
Updated April 24 2018 - 10:50am, first published December 4 2015 - 8:50am

Mood lights. High, sheer curtains. A huge, fluted burgundy vase. Walls of melancholy sepia post-war photographs. This was not the Taipei of functional grey modernism or 7/11 stores with eggs boiled in tea. But the restaurant's website assured me: I was consuming "authentic" Taiwanese food, presumably not to be confused with phony lunches.



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