It's nothing short of Instagram-worthy, if you're that way inclined, but you're going to have to hike in to see it.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
$0/
(min cost $0)
or signup to continue reading
That's the beauty of the 30-kilometre Light to Light walk south of Eden on the pristine and rugged far south coast of NSW. It is remote and wild, and that's how the locals and visitors like it. In fact, it's why they come.
But the NSW government is planning to change all that. A proposal to introduce hut-style accommodation at two beachside locations currently only accessible on foot has caused an uproar, and plans to reroute the existing track to more closely follow the coastline has been met with concern for the environmental impacts and the impact on Aboriginal heritage.
An action group on Facebook has garnered about 600 followers, and a petition against the proposal has been signed by more than 2500 people.
Many aren't opposed to using the $7.9 million funding from the NSW government's regional growth fund to improve the walk in the Ben Boyd National Park; perhaps a boardwalk over sensitive or flood-prone areas, better signage, or better protections for the Aboriginal cultural sites. Maybe another rain water tank for hikers at the popular drive-in camping spot Saltwater Creek, situated about halfway along the hiking trail, where there are already bins, barbecues and composting toilets.
But commercialising the national park will ruin it, they all agree. It will also squeeze out self-reliant backpackers and other existing users.
The aim, the NSW government says, is to make the walk a "great walk of Australia". It's a badge given to walks like the "exclusive" Tasmanian Overland Track, the "luxurious" Bay of Fires Lodge Walk, and Queensland's Spicers Scenic Rim Trail "glamping" experience.
"The upgraded Light to Light Walk will be a fully immersive four-day experience that combines walking and eco-accommodation in one of the most remote and dramatic settings in Australia," the government website reads.
A National Parks spokesman said the proposal was exciting, and was developed with the purpose of "how best to make the Light to Light walk accessible to everyone".
If you get to the stage where the red wine at the end of the day and hot shower is more important than the experience of learning about nature, the priorities of the parks have been turned upside down.
- Bob Brown
But locals are arguing the proposed huts, which would cater for 36 hikers per night, will detract from the wild and remote setting, as will the "glamping" experience that it brings. It will also prevent anyone not paying for the huts from camping at the locations.
There are already existing permissions for smaller commercial operators to provide supported walks, where a tent is set up for walkers, or bags are carried by a guide. Locals aren't against measures to improve access, they're against being shut out to accommodate affluent travellers, they say. It's not just an issue being fought on the far south coast.
Wilderness warrior and former Greens leader Bob Brown is fighting the commercialisation of national parks across the country. He says the proposal is just another example of the "invasion of national parks for profit".
"If you get to the stage where the red wine at the end of the day and hot shower is more important than the experience of learning about nature, the priorities of the parks have been turned upside down," Mr Brown says.
He says the profit motive is also at the forefront of proposed development in the Tasmanian World Heritage wilderness, and on Kangaroo Island in the Flinders Chase National Park.
Mr Brown says another concerning thing about the plans is the proposal to have rangers tasked to look after tourists and not the environment.
"Sure, as more visitors go to national parks we need more personnel, but it seems that the job of rangers will be fostering commercial tourism rather than fostering the environment," Mr Brown says.
He says the Light to Light proposal looks to be drawing on the Three Capes Track in Tasmania, which he believes is limited and unaffordable.
Stephen Dovey tends to agree. He worked for National Parks for 37 years, and 20 of those were spent in the areas around Eden. Mr Dovey says the expansion of the campsites, including at the "treasured" Saltwater Creek, will impact Aboriginal sites and sensitive coastal ecosystems. There are 14 campsites at Saltwater Creek. The proposal calls for an expansion to allow large groups to be accommodated.
He says previous changes had been undertaken in consultation with the community.
"[The community] supported the changes, provided the low-key camping experience of Saltwater Creek was protected. Increasing site numbers will be detrimental," Mr Dovey says.
He says over the past 40 years, the park has been sensitively altered in response to increasing use, but the new proposal, including the plan to reroute almost one-third of the track, would have a huge and negative impact.
"The existing alignment of the walking track was chosen to ensure heath areas were least disturbed," he says.
"The route is located through a range of vegetation types and is sometimes on the coast or sometimes further inland increasing the variety of experiences for walkers. It provides refuge during severe weather. The proposed track will be largely along the coastal edge so as to provide views."
Mr Dovey says branded "great walks" in other places attracted such high numbers of users that those who weren't on a tour or hadn't booked well in advance found themselves excluded.
Mr Dovey is also concerned the Aboriginal cultural heritage assessment for the plans is not able to be publicly viewed. A National Parks spokesman said that was because they contained sensitive information.
Mr Dovey says the proposal was in planning for three years, and this was the first time the community had been consulted.
"The concept, feasibility and detailed planning is in place and this relatively last minute request for comment is not true consultation."
Wollongong resident Zoë Barker and about 600 other people all agree.
Ms Barker grew up in Merimbula, about 40 minutes drive from the Light to Light walk. She represents the community action group on Facebook of which there are 570 members including local tour operators, fishermen, car-campers and bushwalkers. They're all concerned about the long term use of the park.
Ms Barker says the action group has put forward an alternative, low-impact plan that would be "more equitable" for all walkers. It does not include huts, which she said were too exclusive, and too environmentally and culturally damaging.
The group is proposing designated camp sites, fire pits, compost toilets and water tanks in certain locations, but with no restrictions on public access.
"The group's submission raises a number of concerns about the department's proposal to significant restrict public access to some of the most well-loved and significant - and by no coincidence most scenic - parts of the park, by constructing accommodation that then will be leased to commercial business," she says.
Ms Barker says she loves the Light to Light walk because it offers the chance for immersion into nature, in the pristine, unique and remote coastal wilderness. She and many others want to keep it that way.
Public consultation closes on Monday, August 26. Visit this site to find out more.