There was a plan, over the holidays, to head to the coast, review a few restaurants, so the rest of Canberra would know where to go when they made their annual pilgrimage east. But alas none of that was to be. If there's one thing I want to do, in this new year of Food & Wine, is to occasionally support regional restaurants, go a little further afield in search of an excellent meal. We cop a little flack here for not venturing much further than Braddon or the Foreshore. I'm ready to take up the challenge.
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So, what with the constraints, we headed north to Yass to the one-hatted Clementine. It had been on the wish list for a while. Chef Adam Bantock, formerly of A Baker and Temporada, has been praised for his advocacy for local produce, the cute little 1950s weatherboard cottage looks so pretty on Instagram.
The smoke haze lingers as we head out the Barton Highway. It's an easy drive and it feels like a real adventure as soon as you turn on to Yass Valley Way. I like this little town, it's prospered even with the bypass which went in in the mid 90s. A good mix now of vibrant cafes, galleries, homewares stores, commuters.
It's stinking hot when we get out of the car but we're soothed just walking through Clementine's garden. The lawn area has somehow stayed green, the plants too. Several giant-sized dandelions by artist Al Phemister, each made out of 400 concrete bar chairs welded together, look as though they're swaying in the breeze even though the air is still and heavy.
The restaurant itself is like stepping into someone's home. There's a fireplace that does get used in the winter months, an expanse of window overlooking the deck which would be a perfect place for a long lunch on a warmish afternoon.
Two very pleasant young women work the two rooms under the watchful eye of Bantock's wife Brooke Sainsbery. The place is bustling for a Friday lunch, a couple of large tables of retirees and family groups, ladies lunching. It's an excellent vibe.
The menu is tight and changes weekly, depending on what's available, what's in season. At lunch, there's the option of two ($45pp) or three ($55p) courses, dinner is al a carte.
We start with raw king salmon, pork crackling, cucumber and horseradish cream and baked golden beetroots, goat's curd, radicchio, hazelnuts and black garlic.
The salmon is a vibrant dish, the fish sliced thickly, dotted with a horseradish cream that's not too sharp. The crackling is disappointing, it's too hard to even bite through but otherwise the dish is a success.
The classic combination of beetroot and goat's curd is served warm, which is a very pleasant surprise. The hazelnuts adding texture and the golden-hued beetroot firm but not too much so.
From the five mains we settle on the grilled gurnard fillets with salted cod brandade, white anchovy and cos salad and a ragu of lamb with campanelle pasta, peas, mint and pecorino cheese.
The fish is a lovely dish for a warm day, light, delicate, but with some substance from the fish and the anchovies nestled amongst the lettuce. The gurnard is well cooked and flavoursome, the salted cod brandade generous and interesting.
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In this heat the lamb ragu seems a little out of place. Surely a better dish to serve on a night when that fire's roaring and the red is flowing. But it's close to perfect so it's hard to fault. The lamb is from Moorlands Lamb in Dalton, not too far up the road, a former gold medallist in the delicious magazine produce awards.
There's a photograph on Clementine's Instagram of Bantock breaking down a whole lamb and I imagine that perhaps my dish came from that very beast. The handmade pasta, the familiar combination of peas and mint. It's comfort in a bowl.
It's nice to see the local origin of the produce on a menu. And it's nice too to see local wines featuring on the drinks list: Clonakilla, Helm, Nick Spencer, Ravensworth, Whitton Farm to name a few. There's a couple of wines from the bushfire affected Tumbarumba district and we decide to show our support and have a glass of the Coppabella chardonnay.
We caught a glimpse of desserts at the beginning, we knew we were always going to have the three courses. There's a cheese plate option and only two other choices but we were arguing over who would get to have what. The ability to concede and agree to go halfies is a fine quality in a dining companion.
The lemon curd parfait with baked apricots, honey sponge and honeycomb is a joy. The parfait slightly tart and a superb texture against the crunch of the homemade honeycomb and the plump, juicy apricots.
I like to consider myself a trifle aficionado, but Bantock's trifle layered with white chocolate cream, fresh berries, berry jelly and amaretti biscuit raises it to the next level. Served in a deep glass, and topped with a quenelle of strawberry sorbet, each spoonful is a delicious mouthful of texture and flavour. Summer in a glass.
We could linger all afternoon but we vow to come back, look for accommodation in Yass and make a night of it. Clementine serves quality food presented with a touch of fine dining flair but it never loses sight of the local and familiar. Make the trip.
Clementine Restaurant
Address: 104 Meehan Street, Yass
Phone: 62263456
Hours: Lunch, from 11.30am, Friday to Sunday; Dinner, from 5.45pm, Friday and Saturday.
Owner: Adam Bantock
Chef: Adam Bantock
Wheelchair access: Yes
Noise: Not a problem
Vegetarian: Options in each course
