This weeknight pasta can double as an impressive dish for entertaining. Lightly toasting then crushing a few whole fennel seeds emphasizes the flavours of the Italian sausage while adding a lively freshness. Be sure to brown the sausage well for nice crispy edges - it tastes so good that way.

Ingredients

1 tsp fennel seeds

salt

450g trumpet pasta, garganelli, campanelle or other short tubular pasta

1 tbsp olive oil

450g sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

125ml medium-dry white wine, such as pinot gris or pinot grigio

1 packed tbsp grated lemon zest (from 2 large lemons)

60ml fresh lemon juice (from 2 large lemons)

3 tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut into bits

100g coarsely grated parmesan, preferably parmigiano-reggiano, plus more for serving

22g coarsely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley

coarsely ground black pepper

Method

In a small dry frying pan, toast the fennel seeds over medium-low heat, shaking the pan back and forth, until the seeds are fragrant and lightly toasted, one to two minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool, then crush with a mortar and pestle or the bottom of a heavy pan. Set aside.

Bring a large pan of water to a boil and salt it 'til it tastes like the ocean (taste it). Add the pasta and cook until it's about two minutes under al dente.

Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until very hot,.but not smoking. Add the sausage and cook, breaking up the meat into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until deeply golden in spots, about six minutes. Add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, until about half of the liquid is evaporated, one to two minutes. Add the lemon zest and juice. Whisk in the butter one piece at a time, just until melted and incorporated, to form a nice silky sauce.

Scoop out 175ml of the pasta cooking water and reserve. Drain the pasta and return it to the pan. Add the cheese, 125ml of the reserved pasta cooking water, 1/2 teaspoon salt and the fennel seeds. Quickly toss everything together to coat the pasta, adding more of the pasta cooking liquid if the dish appears dry, then stir in the parsley. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

Serve immediately, topped with pepper and a sprinkling of more cheese.

Serves 4-6.