In the Aegean Sea lies the Greek island of Ikaria, where blue Mediterranean waters lap against a mountainous coastline and rocky trails lead to quaint villages, and where the locals seem to hold a secret.
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Ikaria is known worldwide for its incredibly high life expectancies and low rates of chronic disease, much of which can be attributed to diet. Born to Greek parents, Meni Valle has always been fascinated by her family's traditions of cooking and eating. In Ikaria, Valle collects traditional recipes from across the island that encapsulate the best of Mediterranean food: vegetables, beans, whole grains, small amounts of meat and fish, a couple of glasses of wine, and plenty of olive oil. But she also tells the stories that make up Ikaria, where life is all about taking time: time to cook, to eat, to nap, to spend with family and friends, to enjoy and to appreciate.
With intimate glimpses of the island's festivals, produce, kitchens and people, Ikaria is a cookbook that will transport and transform you.
- Recipes from Ikaria: Food and life in the Blue Zone, by Meni Valle. Hardie Grant Books, $45.
Patatokeftedes - potato and cheese fritters
Heavenly on a meze platter, these delicate potato fritters pair very well with a glass of wine or ouzo. Potatoes have ample starch in them, but I like to add an egg as well for extra structure and stability, and to add moisture.
Ingredients
400g potatoes
1 egg
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tbsp finely chopped mint
1 tbsp finely chopped dill
100g feta or Kathoura,
olive oil, for frying
Method
1. Place the whole potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and cook until soft.
2. Remove the potatoes carefully and allow to cool. Rub off the skin and place the cooked potato in a large bowl.
3. Mash the cooked potato and add the egg and herbs. You can vary the herbs to suit your tastes; these are simply the ones that I enjoy. Crumble in the cheese and season with salt and pepper.
4. Mix well to combine and place in the refrigerator to cool.
5. Pour about 4-5cm of olive oil into a deep-frying pan and warm over a medium heat. To check that the oil is hot enough for frying, simply drop a little of the mixture into the oil. If it immediately starts to bubble, the oil is ready.
6. Using a tablespoon, scoop out a walnut-sized amount of potato mixture and carefully place in the hot oil. Cook a few at a time but do not overcrowd or the oil will cool and the fritters will braise and not fry.
7. Turn the fritters so they are golden all over, then remove with a slotted spoon and place on some paper towel to drain.
Serves 4-6.
Yemista lahanika - stuffed vegetables
Yemista is a favourite dish all over Greece, with every village and every household having their own style. The filling is often made with minced meat, but here, when I cooked with Athina, we added mushrooms instead. Delicious served warm with feta and fresh bread, and just as good the next day.
Ingredients
4 potatoes
2 green long peppers
7 tomatoes
2 zucchini, one whole and one grated
2 red onions, one whole and one finely diced
60ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 garlic cloves, finely diced
220g short-grain rice (arborio rice works well here)
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 carrot, peeled and grated
100g finely chopped mushrooms
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup finely chopped mint
2 tbsp finely chopped dill feta and bread, to serve
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180C.
2. Peel and cut the potatoes into wedges, and put aside in a bowl of water so they do not discolour.
3. Cut the tops off the peppers, remove and discard any seeds, and place the peppers in a baking dish.
4. Cut the tops off the tomatoes and the whole zucchini with a sharp knife. Using a teaspoon, carefully scoop out the tomato and zucchini flesh into a bowl. Mash the tomato flesh slightly to create a sauce and neatly dice the zucchini flesh, and set aside. Add the tomatoes and zucchini themselves to the large baking dish.
5. Add the whole onion to the baking dish. Drain the potato wedges and tuck them into the remaining spaces in the dish.
6. Pour the olive oil into a pan over a high heat. Sauté the diced onion in the olive oil until soft. Add the garlic and continue sautéing for two minutes. Add the rice and stir well to coat each grain with the olive oil mixture. This seals the rice and prevents it from becoming slushy.
7. Add the tomato and zucchini flesh, along with the tomato paste, grated zucchini and carrot, mushrooms and 500ml water. Season with salt and pepper and allow to simmer for five to six minutes. (The rest of the cooking will happen in the oven.)
8. At the last minute, add the herbs and stir well.
9. Using a tablespoon, fill the peppers, tomatoes and zucchini in the baking dish with the rice mixture. Only fill each one three-quarters of the way as the rice will expand more while it is in the oven.
10. You will have some leftover filling: mix through an extra half cup of water and pour over the potatoes in the baking dish.
11. Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over the vegetables and a little more salt. Cover the dish with aluminium foil and place in the oven for about 50 minutes, then remove the foil and continue cooking uncovered for a further 15-20 minutes until the vegetables are golden and cooked. Keep an eye on it while cooking; if it looks like it is getting too dry, you can add a little more water.
12. Serve warm with feta and some fresh bread.
Serves 4-6.
Portokalopita - orange pie with filo and syrup
I first tried this exquisite sweet at the Women's Co-op. It is not surprising that it is one of their most popular cakes. It is zesty, custardy, crispy and syrupy all at the same time. Serve it with a dollop of Greek yoghurt or even some ice cream on a summer's day.
Ingredients
melted clarified butter, for brushing
400g ready-made filo pastry
Greek yoghurt, to serve
drizzle of honey, to serve
Filling:
4 eggs
100g caster sugar
200ml vegetable oil
3 tbsp grated orange zest
2 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp baking powder
285g Greek yoghurt
Syrup:
345g caster sugar
250ml orange juice
3 tbsp grated orange zest
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180C. Brush some melted clarified butter onto a 35cm round baking tray or a 25cm x 35cm rectangular baking tray.
2. Fold or crumple each filo sheet using your hands and place in the tray. If you are using a round tray, work your way from the centre until all the dish is covered. If you are using a rectangular tray then concertina fold and place each sheet side by side until the baking tray is lined.
3. Place in the oven and bake for 6-8 minutes, until the filo feels crispy to the touch. Keep the oven on.
4. For the filling, in a large bowl beat the eggs, sugar, oil, orange zest and vanilla using an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add the baking powder and the yoghurt and stir gently until all combined.
5. Ladle the filling mixture evenly over the filo pastry and set aside for four minutes for the mixture to find its way through the folds of pastry, then bake for about 25-30 minutes until golden.
6. While the pastry is baking, make the syrup. Put the sugar, orange juice, zest, cinnamon stick, cloves and 250ml water into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce to a low heat and simmer for five minutes.
7. When the pie is baked, remove from the oven and ladle the hot syrup over the warm pie and allow to sit until all the syrup has been absorbed.
8. Serve cool with a dollop of yoghurt drizzled with honey.
Serves 4-6.
Salata tabouli
This simple salad is not only healthy but super delicious, and dreamy with a dollop of Greek yoghurt. It is important to chop the vegetables and herbs as finely as you can for this salad. You can use a food processor for the parsley if you like, but make sure to use a sharp knife for the tomatoes and spring onions to keep them in good shape.
Ingredients
45g fine burghul
3 tomatoes, diced
1/4 cup sliced spring onions
3 cups parsley, finely chopped
1/4 cup mint, finely chopped
1 pomegranate (optional)
1 cucumber, seeded and diced (optional)
60ml olive oil
60ml fresh lemon juice (or white vinegar)
Method
1. In a large bowl soak the burghul with enough hot water to cover and leave for 30 minutes or until all the water is absorbed. Drain any excess water.
2. Place the tomatoes, spring onions and herbs into a serving bowl and add the burghul. Combine gently with a fork.
3. If you'd like to add pomegranate to the salad, deseed it by first rolling it on a board to loosen the seeds. Cut in half. Over a bowl, hold one of the halves cut side down and tap the skin with a spoon to release the seeds. It will probably splatter juice, so be gentle and place some paper towel down to catch any juice. Repeat with the second half. Add the pomegranate seeds along with the cucumber, if using, to the salad.
4. Mix the olive oil and lemon juice together. Drizzle over the salad and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours and serve chilled.
Serves 4-6.