In my mind this has to be champagne. All the urban myths about Dom Perignon "discovering" he had created bubbles in a bottle of still wine still permeate the mystery that is champagne. Dom Perignon was in fact tasked with the job of removing the bubbles from still wine that was causing an explosive chain reaction among bottles of still wine in the Abbey Hautvillers where he worked.

The region itself is the only place that can make what we are allowed to call champagne. While it seems silly that a similar wine style has to be called cremant (Burgundy), cava (Spain) or spumante (Italy), cap classique (South Africa) or even "traditional method" on some labels, it's important to remember that by European Union law, champagne is a protected place name. Only sparkling wines actually made in the Champagne region using age-old products and methods can be labeled with the champagne name because it is a protected place name, much like scotch and bourbon.

Most countries, including Australia have made trade agreements with the EU, agreeing that all parties will respect the place names of the others. Even the terms méthode champenoise and champagne method were forbidden by an EU court decision in 1994.

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The grapes traditionally used to make Champagne are pinot noir, pinot meunier (both red) which give the wine its length and backbone and chardonnay for freshness and acidity. Within the region of champagne, these grapes are planted to suit the terroir or climate of the area.

Enough about how and why - let's pour a glass and enjoy. I still use a flute glass when serving champagne because it reduces the surface area that is in contact with the wine and therefore maintains the delightful bead or bubbles that tickle your tongue. Serve around 9C to preserve the bubbles and keep the bottle chilled until it is finished. Always open the bottle with the muselet (wire cage) on the cork, this helps with traction and turning the bottle while you ease the cork out. Unless you have just won a grand prix - the idea of doing a "shoey" is not that tantalising, so use the good glasses and say "a votre sante" - your good health.