Now in its ninth year, Sage runs its Taste and Test roughly this time every year to help the kitchen shape the menu for the upcoming season. It gives the kitchen a chance to get no holds barred feedback on their dishes. Each dish is scored out of 10, and at the end of the night, the scores are averaged between all the diners. If a dish scores above 8.5, it reappears on the menu, sevens and eights mean that the kitchen will return it with some tweaks, and anything that scores a six or less is a no-go.

Eating outdoors seems a little torturous in Canberra's autumn weather, but the few diners out here don't seem to mind. Heaters make it almost bearable, but I'd definitely suggest asking for a table inside when booking.

Fortunately, once we're seated inside the wine list is quick to appear. Dietarys are asked after, but otherwise there is no choice on the five-course menu ($85) and every dish comes out as a surprise. Every table is covered in butchers paper, we're given pencils and invited to score each dish out of 10. While not part of the tasting menu, I have to say the bread is delightful, so good that I've added my own category and scored it 10/10. It's warm, crunchy and fluffy on the outside with a complex, earthy, almost mushroomy flavour.

It's worth noting that the menu changes throughout Taste and Test, so the dishes below might be quite different to what's pictured in this review. There are two more sessions in this run, on May 12 and 13 so get in quick.

Maybe it's the experimental nature of the menu, but the dishes tonight do feel a little disjointed. The sizes vary and the menu doesn't seem to have a clear vision - which is all in the spirit of the thing, I suppose. There are seemingly casual dishes like a whole hasselback Nicola potato with whipped dory roe and trout caviar, but also more niche ones like calamari with toasted nut oil and dashi broth. The former is large, the latter is tiny; and they're quite different in approach.

While I am a little surprised to be served a whole potato at a fine dining restaurant, my hesitancy wanes as I make my way through the dish. There's something about the simple, comforting flavour of potato with added complexity from the dory roe. If I thought I couldn't eat a whole potato before, I'm glad that I did by the end. It's simple, but also refined.

The calamari dish is distinctly Japanese, and while I don't mind the fishy flavours, my dining companion finds it a bit overwhelming. The small strips of calamari have a slightly rubbery texture that I'm not a huge fan of.

The grilled leek with wild mushroom cream is also very small. Charred leek is topped with half moons of zucchini, zucchini petals, wild mushroom cream and finished with pecorino. I appreciate the simple, clean flavours but in a short lineup, it doesn't pack that much punch. I could see it working in a longer series of courses though - in those instances where not every course can be the star of the show.

A covering of silverbeet leaves hides slices of beautifully pink slow-cooked lamb neck. Mint is woven through and the sauce has undertones of anchovy. The lamb is well cooked and the silverbeet adds an earthiness that works well. It's a good dish, and a pretty substantial end to the savoury courses.

For dessert, we get Bombe Alaska, though it is more of a Tart Alaska. Instead of a sponge cake and ice cream filling, it's fig and mascarpone tart with meringue. It's a little play-by-numbers, flavour wise, and it's lacking a bit of the precision expected of a fine dining restaurant. There are gaps in the meringue where you can see through to the filling, the pastry isn't particularly short, and there's not enough contrast between the elements to make it a hit.

The best part of the whole experience is that the staff are at the top of their game here. They're knowledgeable and have a genuine sense of excitement about the food - something that I haven't seen at many restaurants lately.

It's hard to fault any of the dishes tonight. Sure, they feel a little disjointed and the menu lacks cohesiveness as we move through the five courses. Which is fair enough - it is a try and see it approach as Sage settles its new menu. But while the dishes are well executed in their own right for the past, it is just that they aren't particularly exciting.

Perhaps it is us, and our expectations are too high, having read that Sage had won TripAdvisor's best fine dining restaurant in 2020, beating out restaurants all around Australia. It's still early days with James Viles having only recently taken over the reins - I'd be interested to return when he's had a bit more time to settle in.

Address: Gorman House Arts Centre, Batman St, Braddon

Phone: 62496050

Website: sagerestaruant.net.au

Hours: Wednesday to Saturday, 11.30am-3pm and 5.30-10.30pm

Owners: Harvac Group

Chef: Executive chef, James Viles; chef de partie Andy Photiou; sous chef Corey Finch

Vegetarian: Best to specify when booking

Noise: Not a problem, in fact, rather excellent music selection