When we do venture out for the day, perhaps for fish and chips in Greenwell Point, or a coffee at Mossy Point, we'll perhaps think "I should come back and see more of this place". But we rarely do.

I hadn't been to Merimbula for at least 15 years. The in-laws had a house at Tura Beach for a while and that was the main reason we ventured that far south. It's almost three hours. It doesn't feel right heading to Cooma for a weekend down the coast. So much easier to hop over the Clyde and be in the Bay before lunch. Not that anyone actually stays in the Bay. (Do they?)

But here I am in Merimbula. It starts to feel familiar as I hit Merimbula Drive, as it winds around the mountain that overlooks the town. I love a grand entrance when you're holidaying and the kids are playing spotto, hoping they are the first to see the ocean. Merimbula never fails in this account.

And there's the bowling club where we'd swing off up to Tura Beach along Sapphire Coast Drive (and get a good schnitzel), the lake where we'd go prawning, the bridge where you'd cross to get to the beach, the wharf where we'd take the kids fishing with one of those little wheels of line. It felt like nothing had changed.

But, as I was soon to discover, plenty has. Merimbula is worth the extra hour's drive now. Here's why.

Remember the retro hotels along Merimbula Drive? Too far from the beach but a great view I always thought. Hillcrest Merimbula will make you forget you have to pack the car for a day on the beach. Caspar Tresidder moved down from Sydney and renovated the 1970's motel with the help of Sydney's Atelier Chardon Architecture and there's a definite contemporary vibe. Every room has uninterrupted views down over the town to the ocean. You might be distracted by the giant palm tree down near the revamped original pool where there's a fire pit for an evening drink and a tennis court if you're feeling a little more active. The renovation has been sympathetic to the original vision with timber and exposed brick a feature throughout.

If you're looking for something where you can self-cater there are plenty of options, from apartments with pools to charming airbnbs. The star-shaped beach cabins overlooking Short Point Beach are always a popular family spot.

Forget the club schnitzel. The food scene in Merimbula has lifted its game in a big way. Dulcie's is a cafe and bar situated in a reimagined 1925 weatherboard cottage. Sit under the big jacaranda tree while you wait for your burger, made in the restored 1950s caravan, and order a drink from the well-stocked bar.

If you're looking for something a little more fancy, try Valentina. Early reviews called it a "game changer for the south coast". With views across the lake and a Mediterranean inspired menu that champions local produce, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly but classy at the same time.

Also check out Banksia, a fine-dining restaurant in an old bank on the main street of Pambula which features local produce on the menu. And Wheeler's has some of the best seafood on the lake, with oysters direct from their own farm.

Speaking of oysters, Greg Carton and Sue McIntyre run Broadwater Oysters on the shores of Pambula Lake. You can sit under the tree and enjoy a platter of just-harvested oysters and a beer or a wine. Or get hands on and join in one of their hands-on classes where you'll learn to shuck your own.

To work up an appetite, first drop in at Mitchies Jetty and hire a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard, or let the kids splash around in the shallows on the edge of the lake. The spot's been a Merimbula institution for 40 odd years, but the installation of an espresso bar has drawn in a whole new crowd.

And you won't have to worry about crowds on the golf course, if you've packed your clubs. There are five golf courses within a one-hour drive from Merimbula, including Pambula Merimbula, Tura Beach Country Club, Eden Gardens Country Club and Bermagui Country Club. Fore.

The Sapphire Coast is heaven for serious walkers. You can head out by yourself but if you're looking for a guided tour, where you'll learn a little history from the excellent guides check out Sapphire Coast Guiding Co. Guides Tess and Cam lead tours to suit all different tastes, both have backgrounds in outdoor education and conservation and Tess is a talented cook which comes in handy on the longer tours. The new Wharf to Wharf three-day walk takes you from Merimbula Wharf, 27km up to Tathra and it is fully catered so you only need to carry a day pack. The Light to Light walk is also popular, from Boyd Tower overlooking Twofold Bay, 30km to Green Cape Lighthouse. There's also the option of staying in the historic lightkeeper's cottages.

If you're looking for something a little less strenuous, try the Goodenia Rainforest track, which is great for the whole family, or the Long Point walking track to the lookout which offers great views; in whale watching season, around spring, you might even get lucky and spot some humpback whales.

Yes, it does feel weird heading to Cooma and cutting through a bleak industrial area, but the Snowy Mountains Highway has its rewards. Most of them have to do with pies. How can three tiny towns within a pie's throw of each other boast such fine baked goods. Don't feel guilty for stopping at bakeries in Nimmitabel and Bemboka and Candelo for something to eat. Think of all the walking you'll be doing.

The Candelo General Store and Cafe is worth a longer stop. In its heyday, the area was a centre for trade from the mountains to the coast in the mid 1800s, Candelo boasted four general stores, seven blacksmiths, three hotels, its own newspaper, a doctor, chemist and a tailor, according to local lore. The current general store was built in 1904 and has been trading ever since. And it's still a general store in the truest sense of the word, selling everything from delicious meals, to giftware, local produce and stock feed. Just in case you need to feed the cows while you're on holiday.

That's the question at the end of every trip away, isn't it. And the answer here is yes I will. OK, if you only have a night, and it has to be spent on the coast, perhaps you are better off not straying far from Batemans Bay. But if you want to treat yourself, and can spare a few night's Merimbula will not disappoint. There's definitely enough to see and do to fill in the time.

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