Christine Manfield has been travelling to India for the past 30 years. She fell in love with the country for its diverse cultural and culinary heritage, for its engaging people and its fragrant kitchens.
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"India is simply dazzling," says the renowned chef and cookbook author who is on her way to Canberra for three events.
"After my first visit as a guest chef, I have returned countless times to explore its hidden secrets and ancient history, to be constantly curious about its extraordinary food repertoire."
It's this very repertoire, the complexity of Indian cuisine, that has perhaps thrown some of us cooking it at home, happier to pick up takeaway from our favourite restaurants.
Manfield acknowledges Indian cuisine can be intimidating for the home cook, so she decided to write her latest book Indian Cooking Class with this very thing in mind.
"I want to break down those misconceptions, demystify the cooking process using pantry staples with uncomplicated, straightforward cooking techniques, explaining the blending of spices with dishes that are easily achievable in the home kitchen," she says.
"Learning to cook Indian food successfully demands an understanding of spice. The combining of spice gives a dish its character, complexity and distinctive flavour."
Manfield will be hosting three events in Canberra: a Commonwealth Club literary dinner on May 5; a cooking class and tasting at Pialligo Estate Academy on May 6; and an in conversation at Muse, Kingston, on May 7.
"My aim is to encourage intuitive, confident cooking and by touring with the book hopefully we can reach more people."
Published in November 2021, the publicity tour for Indian Cooking Class is just underway. She says the pandemic decimated the hospitality industry.
"It has been a time to refocus, repurpose and rebuild," she says. "There are some extraordinary signs of ingenuity and vision that are so inspiring, that I hope work towards a more compassionate and nurturing culture."
Home cooks also have to be brave enough to try cooking the cuisine at home.
"The pantry should include a selection of essential spices, a few types of lentils, chickpeas, basmati rice, coconut milk, tamarind, yoghurt and fresh herbs, these are the building blocks for a myriad of dishes. Having a curry leaf tree in your garden is a bonus."
And venture past curries.
"There is such breadth and scope that many don't appreciate or expect," she says.
"The array of snacks, often found in street food, the breads, textural salads and the extraordinary world of vegetable dishes. So much more than what has been narrowly defined as Indian food in the West.
"I am a bit of an addict of buttery flaky paratha, puris are easier to make than you think and so versatile and the green chilli dosa is one of my go-to breakfast staples."
As one of Australia's most celebrated and revered chefs, Manfield has contributed enormously to the country's collective table.
She is inspired by global flavours as well as local and sustainable produce that supports both communities and the environment.
Her restaurants have included the award-winning Paramount in Sydney, East@West in London and Sydney's Universal. She continues to collaborate with chefs and industry colleagues hosting pop-up events across Australia.
Her award-winning cookbooks include Tasting India, A Personal Guide to India and Bhutan and Dessert Divas.
"Every day is different and I'm so fortunate to be in a position to be able to pick and choose what projects I want to take on, a very privileged position I know," she says.
"Given how COVID has reshaped the world, it has given me time to reflect, so my focus for small group travel has shifted from global experiences to offering insightful and meaningful experiences centred on regional Australia."
She'll be hosting food-centric tours to Arnhem Land, Flinders Ranges and the Tweed Valley, her own backyard, later this year.
More details can be found on her website christinemanfield.com.
But for the moment we're in India.
"The Indian kitchen is a fragrant one defined by the masterful blending of spices and intriguing array of flavours with heady, captivating aromas," she says.
"The Indian palate is adventurous and attuned to an extraordinary array of flavour combinations. Food is typically spiced up in the kitchen to varying degrees and the genius lies in using spice to enhance, rather than dominate.
"As you explore these recipes and develop confidence with their flavours and techniques, it's vital to learn to distinguish between spice and heat. These elements play different roles yet are often mistakenly confused."
She says with the recipes in the book her aim is to share her love for these distinctive flavours.
"These approachable, everyday recipes have been inspired by my excitement for Indian flavours and traditions, yet are adapted to suit our modern lifestyles and tastes.
"This collection sometimes takes familiar flavours and techniques in a new direction, but still remains true to origin.
"It also includes recipes where I have interpreted flavours and given them a more Western appearance.
"In both cases, the intention is to broaden your palate, appreciation and understanding of India's extraordinary culinary tapestry, then and now."
- Indian Cooking Class, by Christine Manfield. Simon & Schuster. $59.99.
- Commonwealth Club literary dinner: May 5, details from commonwealth.com.au
- Pialligo Academy: May 6, 6.30pm, $139pp includes cooking class featuring six courses, tasting and wine. Bookings essential. thepialligoestate.com.au
- Muse Canberra: May 7, 1pm, $10 includes refreshments, $64 includes refreshments and a copy of the book. Bookings essential. musecanberra.com.au
Prawn kedgeree
An age-old comfort dish using two staple grains, rice and lentils, this recipe is common throughout India and popularised by the British, who changed the spelling from khichadi to kedgeree. I've glamorised this humble dish with of prawns and cook it so it has a similar texture to risotto.
Ingredients
200g basmati rice
120g toor dal (yellow split lentils)
100g ghee
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
2 cardamom pods, cracked
4 cloves
1 brown onion, finely diced
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 small green chilli, minced
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
3 tsp sea salt flakes
600g raw prawn meat, peeled, deveined and butterflied
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
12 fresh curry leaves
2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 tbsp coriander leaves
Method
1. Wash the rice and the dal separately. Soak in separate bowls of cold water for 30 minutes. Drain.
2. Melt 50 grams of the ghee in a wide-based pan over medium heat. As the ghee melts, add the whole spices and fry for one minute or until starting to colour. Add the onion and cook for five minutes or until softened. Add the ginger garlic paste, chilli and pepper and stir to combine. Add the drained rice and dal and stir to coat in the onion mixture.
3. Add 1.5 litres boiling water and two teaspoons salt, cover and cook over medium-low heat for 15 minutes or until rice and dal are cooked and much of the water is absorbed. If it's too dry, just add a little extra hot water. It should be the consistency of a risotto. Remove from heat and discard whole spices.
4. Meanwhile, season prawns with turmeric, cumin and remaining teaspoon salt.
5. Melt the remaining 50g ghee in a frying pan over high heat. Once it starts to sizzle, add the curry leaves and the seasoned prawns and cook, tossing over the heat, for two minutes or until prawns start to colour. Add the tomato and cook for 30 seconds. Add the prawns to the hot rice and stir until thoroughly combined. Check seasoning and garnish with coriander to serve.
Serves 6.
Black pepper chicken and onion curry
This dish is an enduring favourite from Hyderabad, where black pepper is a prominent seasoning and heavily used in the robust, Andhra-style cooking. Subtlety is not key here, there should be a very obvious pepper kick to this curry, so add a little more if your palate prefers. For extra zing, I like to add a few extra grinds from the pepper mill just as I serve.
Ingredients
1 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 tsp sea salt flakes
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
4 x 180 g chicken marylands, cut into thigh and leg joints
100ml vegetable oil
2 brown onions, sliced lengthwise
1/2 cup onion puree (blend 1 white onion with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil)
2 tbsp finely shredded ginger
4 tbsp coriander leaves, roughly chopped
2 tbsp fried shallot slices
Method
1. Place the ginger garlic paste, salt, lemon juice, turmeric, coriander, chilli and half the pepper in a bowl and mix to combine. Rub into the chicken. Place in the fridge to marinate for two hours.
2. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the remaining black pepper and the onion and cook, stirring, for five minutes or until softened and starting to colour. Reduce heat slightly, stir in the onion puree and cook for a further 10 minutes or until onion is browned.
3. Increase heat to medium-high, add the chicken with its marinade and cook for five minutes to remove any excess liquid. Add 250ml water and simmer, turning the chicken halfway through, for 15 minutes or until chicken is just cooked through. Check seasoning and add a little extra salt, if necessary. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with shredded ginger, coriander leaves and fried shallots.
Serves 4.
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Cucumber peanut salad
This fragrant salad was served to me at a cafe in Goa years ago. Its contrasting textures resonated with me, so I've recreated it from my taste memories and, whenever I make it, I'm transported straight back to that place on the beach. Peanuts are grown and used in many regions of India and make a tasty snack when roasted and sprinkled with salt or added to rice or curry for textural contrast.
Ingredients
2 telegraph cucumbers, peeled
2 small green chillies, minced
60g shredded fresh coconut
2 tbsp shredded coriander leaves
1 tbsp shredded mint leaves
1 tbsp lime juice
1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes
60g roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
1 tbsp sunflower oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
2 tbsp fresh curry leaves
1/2 tsp caster sugar
1 tsp sea salt flakes
Method
1. Split the cucumbers in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut each piece in half again lengthwise, then cut crosswise into uniform 1cm dice.
2. Place the cucumber, green chilli, coconut and herbs in a bowl with the lime juice, chilli flakes and peanut and stir to combine.
3. Heat the oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook for 30 seconds or until they start to pop. Add the curry leaves and cook for 20 seconds or until crisp.
4. Pour the spiced oil over the salad, season with sugar and salt and stir to combine. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.