I think it's worth comparing the two Croatian coastal cities because, as the country has become more popular over the past decade or so, they have both become more of a tourism magnet in their own ways. While Dubrovnik, with its imposing fortified walls constraining the World Heritage city, battles the problem of overtourism, Split feels more open, with the blue sea inviting further exploration. In fact, one of the joys of Split is using it as a base for expeditions across the region.

Not that the centre of Split - a World Heritage Site in itself - doesn't have its own history to explore. If wandering through the streets of white limestone and marble feels grander than the average downtown, that's not your imagination. This was all once the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian, who built it near his hometown for his retirement in AD305. The word "palace" is slightly misleading, though, because this was an enormous complex, with huge fortified walls at least 200 metres long on each side, housing the former emperor and his inner circle, as well as a large military garrison. It wasn't until the 7th century that commoners started to move in, putting their houses and shops in the open spaces that were once courtyards and gardens.

I start my exploration in the open square known as the Peristyle, with imposing colonnades on each side where Diocletian is said to have addressed crowds. On one side is his former mausoleum, a large octagonal monument that was converted into a church in the 7th century and is now the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, complete with an iconic 50-metre-high bell tower. In front of the square is the Vestibule, a huge circular brick hall that would once have been topped with a dome. When the former emperor lived here, it would've been used for important meetings. When I wander in today, I find a small choir singing in the centre, their charming melody echoing around the ancient structure.

Narrow streets where courtiers may once have rushed, and nobility may have huddled, are now full of tourists with cameras and ice creams. The pathways that cross the old imperial residence lead to bars and restaurants and tucked-away historic sights, like the Temple of Jupiter, a richly decorated Roman monument that has in front of it one of 12 sphinxes brought from Egypt by Diocletian to decorate his palatial complex.

The southern end of the palace looks over the water, and it's from here that my gaze reaches the islands off the Croatian coast, with ferries regularly travelling between them and Split. The most popular is Hvar, known for its elegant hotels and seafood restaurants, where glamourous yachts are just as likely to be moored in the harbours as traditional wooden fishing boats. As a tourist, you can do Hvar in style and stay at one of the luxury resorts, or you can choose a budget guesthouse, swim at public beaches, and grab a drink in the historic squares of the small towns that dot the coastline. One day, I hire a bicycle and ride through the large plain in the island's core, which was farmed by Greek settlers more than 2000 years ago and still uses the same ancient agricultural techniques.

Back on the mainland, there are national parks to hike through, viewpoints to climb to at the top of hills, and other cities that are easily accessible by car or public transport. Thirty minutes away, the small historic city of Trogir, built on an island connected by bridges just 20 metres from the shore, offers a wonderful day trip to the best-preserved medieval settlement on the eastern Adriatic. Even Dubrovnik can be reached as a day trip from Split, although visiting it reminds you how much better connected the latter is, with Dubrovnik cut off from the rest of the Croatian coast by a narrow strip of Bosnia and Herzegovina that gives its Balkan neighbour maritime access. [Dubrovnik may only be 200 kilometres from Split, but it's currently a time-consuming journey because of the two border crossings in each direction, although a new $600 million bridge to avoid that is due to open later this year.]

With enough to see in Split and the surrounding area - not to mention all the delights further north in Croatia - there's really no need to head south as a day trip, though. The reasonable prices, stunning beaches, great food, and accessible heritage make for a wonderful holiday that is improved by settling in and relaxing, rather than adding onerous extra travel.

As we start to head towards winter in Australia, the warmth of the European summer is clearly proving to be an attractive prospect. If you've recently looked at flights to Europe for the June/July school holidays, you'll know how shocking the prices are - about $3000 return in economy with good connections, and up to $4000 return in economy on Qantas to London, for example. [It's worth noting the prices are much more reasonable for summer dates that fall during school terms.]

It shows there's demand, and that means Europe is likely to be as busy this summer as it was before the pandemic. Rather than head to the crowded hotspots, perhaps it's worth looking for some alternatives - Croatia rather than Italy, for instance. And Split, rather than Dubrovnik.