But speaking of bones. A T-bone is my favourite cut of red meat. There's something about meat on the bone that has always appealed. Fatty little lamb loin chops, Frenched lamb cutlets if I'm feeling a bit fancy. A T-bone is a proper steak, full of flavour and substantial.

And here at The Inn, the one kilogram T-bone is about as substantial as you can get. Sourced from Brooklyn Valley Beef in Victoria's Gippsland region, it's a great piece of meat. Served sliced off the bone, it's enough for four, or perhaps more, the idea is to plonk it on the table with a selection of sides and enjoy the idea of passing around plates and sharing in a meal.

There's a touch of crispy caramelisation around the edges, the slices are thick and tender. It's served with a pepper sauce, so retro, but there's a kick and depth to the sauce that makes me wonder why I don't order pepper sauce more often, instead of boring old gravy.

But let's go back to the beginning. It's a Tuesday night in Ainslie. Perhaps a portent of the good night to come, I manage to secure a parking spot easily (everytime I go to Ainslie shops I think people must live at the IGA). Downstairs Edgar's is pumping. Tables are full, inside and out, even on this chilly evening. I realise later it's Steak Night. These diners gnawing away on their $25 rump perhaps have no idea what's on offer upstairs, in some kind of upstairs, downstairs Downton Abbey class system.

Because upstairs, with The Inn is just a little fancier. Not so much formal, but classy, with a wood-lined bar, raw concrete walls, upholstered furniture.

The star of the kitchen is a huge Asado grill that owner Frank Condi put in when he refurbished the upstairs space in mid 2021 and the menu leans on that considerably.

We start with half-shell scallops ($7.50 each), swimming in garlic butter which is ultra-garlicky but light at the same time. The scallops are thick and beautifully cooked. Forgetting I'm not at home eating alone I pick up the shell and drink the sauce once the scallop has disappeared.

The next starter is woodfired peppers ($9) served on a bed of whipped goat's cheese. There's a sprinkling of smoked almonds, a few chives. The char from the grill adds a smokiness; a simple dish done really well.

The drinks list here is extensive. There isn't a great range available by the glass. We're after a sparkling, but there's only a prosecco available by a single serve and the waitress is happy to offer us a taste to see if we like it. It's a bit sweet so we choose a Denton Shed rose, a pinot noir/shiraz blend from the Yarra Valley, which was so fresh and bright I tracked down a few bottles online when I got home.

And then our steak arrives. The one-kilogram behemoth. Yes it's $110 but four serves evens the price out. Not to mention its provenance. We go for sides of Brussel sprouts with 'nduja ($12) and roast parsnips with a cashew butter and chestnut crumble ($12). Both are perfect with the steak. Think what you will about sprouts. I love them now. These ones are done on the grill, crispy and caramelly, a little kick from the spicy 'ndjua. Parsnips too are often underrated. Yes we could have chosen fries but we're grown-ups. The parsnips and nuts, a touch of rosemary, are perfectly seasonal and delicious.

Perhaps we shouldn't have ordered dessert. Given we asked for the remaining steak in takeaway containers, our waitress happy to oblige. Indeed desserts were a little underwhelming. A coconut tapioca pudding ($15) done with rhubarb, while tasty, presented more like a breakfast dish. The white chocolate and mandarin cheesecake ($15) the most disappointing dish of the night. Such promise, mandarins too are underrated, but the cheesecake itself was a little flat, and the char-grilled segments on the side were odd. I know the grill here is the star, but there's no need to use it in every dish.

On reflection, when I eat at The Inn again, I'll go there with more purpose. Make do with a few of the starters and that rose. Perhaps indulge myself with that steak. It's all well and good to talk about restraint, but sometimes you've just got to live a little.

Address: Level 1, 1 Edgar St, Ainslie

Phone: 62575488

Website: edgarsinn.com.au

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 5.30pm-late

Owner: Frank Condi

Chef: Steve Jacomos

Noise: No problem

Dietary: Some options available