Perhaps when it comes to this string of tropical islands in the Gulf of Thailand, people think they're all the same, so why bother with that extra step. Well, Koh Phangan may have golden beaches and jungle-covered mountains like the others, but it's grown into a very different holiday destination. With new boutique hotels and hipster cafes nestled amongst a strong and vibrant local culture, I predict it will soon become one of Thailand's next hotspots.

My first visit to Koh Phangan was almost 20 years ago, as a foolish (or perhaps foolhardy) backpacker. During the day I would swim and chat to other young travellers. In the late afternoon, we would drink beers on the beach while someone would play guitar (I still, even now, remember one guy singing the same Pink Floyd song for an hour). And in the evenings, we would drink some more as the sand became a dance floor and fire-twirlers seemed to emerge from the surrounding jungle.

Back then, Koh Phangan had a reputation mainly as a backpacker haven, particularly because of the lure of the infamous Full Moon Party. These days, there's still a Full Moon Party and there are still backpackers - but both tend to be found just on the tiny southern tip of the island, around a beach called Haad Rin. It's easy for other travellers to be oblivious to the parties (and never hear a note of Pink Floyd) on the north-eastern beaches, about 20 kilometres away.

Kicking off my shoes and stepping out onto the sand at Zen Beach, I immediately feel the name is apt. It's not just the prevalence of yoga retreats in the neighbourhood, with more happy pants and dreadlocks than usual. It's also the sense of calm that comes from a quiet strip of sand shaded by palm trees, congruous bungalows peeping out from between them, with the gentle lapping of the tide as the main soundtrack.

Just to the north, past a rocky headland, is Haad Chao Phao Beach, where again I find peace on the palm-lined sand, a couple of wooden fishing boats tied by rope to the shore, just a handful of people lazing in the sun, and more bungalows. The accommodation here, with relatively basic facilities but waterfront views, can start from just $50 a night. Even at the top of the headland, a four-star boutique hotel with an infinity pool offering the most colourful sunsets is just $120 for a suite - considerably cheaper than what you would be paying just 10 kilometres across the gulf on Koh Samui.

Up the coast, the beaches continue. Most have just a single road in and are inaccessible from either side. The cliffs and rocky outcrops bookending them create a sense that each is its own small community, with a couple of shops and restaurants, some hammocks, definitely massages. Each has its own feel, one for the hippies, one for the hip; some better for families, some better for those who want to get familiar. Visitors who are looking to relax may spend most of their time at the beach around their community, while others do day trips along the coast.

While the warm waters are a big attraction, I head inland to dive into the dense jungle that covers most of Koh Phangan. Much of it is hard to reach, protected by a series of national parks, but there is a three-hour-return hiking trail to the top of the island's highest peak, Khao Ra. I first opt for a shorter (although no less humid) walk into Than Sadet National Park, leading past several waterfalls, butterflies floating in front of me as I push past gnarled vines. Later in the day, I visit Paradise Waterfall, accessible by car and with a large refreshing swimming hole at its base. An enterprising local has set up a ticket booth charging about $1 to get in (but seeing as it includes a cold bottle of water, I'm happy to pay after just trudging up a steep hill).

I've been walking around a lot of Koh Phangan. Public transport is limited and taxis are quite expensive, which is why most people hire scooters or small cars. But by wandering the streets - many of them quite rural - I've been able to see more of the local life here. Hidden behind unassuming gates are majestic Buddhist temples with striking statues (the most memorable are the sculptures of gruesome torture depicting hell at Wat Samai Kongka). Small restaurants, often open-air except for a corrugated-iron roof, serve their specialties of noodle soups and chicken rice for a dollar or two. Roadside market stalls hang fresh fruit from wooden poles, offering cheap and easy snacks for passers-by like me.

Unlike Koh Samui (or Phuket on Thailand's west coast), nothing ever feels too developed or over-touristed in Koh Phangan, yet it has everything a visitor needs. Grab a pad thai from the street vendor or a flat white from the new cafe, they're both available. But don't miss the golden beaches and the tropical jungle. And, for those young at heart, there's still always the Full Moon Party.

You can see more things to do on Koh Phangan on Michael Turtle's Time Travel Turtle website