Everytime I mention the idea of a long business lunch, the young things in the office look at me like I'm the ancient dinosaur I am. I regale them with tales of the days of yore when journalists from the office would abscond to restaurants such as Portia's in Kingston, or The Lobby, if it was a particularly important lunch, and not be seen again until minutes before deadline. And still file on time as the press started to rumble.
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Oh those were the days.
But recently I've been wondering whether there is a place for a work day lunch, one out of the office, where conversations can be had, or perhaps deals can be made. Are we allowed to schmooze clients anymore? You know the kind of meal I mean.
An express lunch. Which is exactly what it's called at The Meat & Wine Co, in the very schwanky Constitution Place in the city. Why has it taken me so long to visit this area which is actually pretty cool with its curves and lines and five-metre statue of Andrew Inglis Clark which caused a stir when it was built.
Today Clark stands strong against a blustery wind and The Meat & Wine Co is a welcoming place. Although not for five minutes. I've absconded with one of the said young things and we arrive at 11.55am only to be told service doesn't start until noon so we can sit near the door and wait.
It gives us time to view the interiors. It's a stunning space, metallic coloured cloth hangs from the ceiling, there's a lot of leather and wood. It's a little dark inside, we're unsure if that's because of the gloomy weather outside, but perhaps a mood more for dinner than lunch.
The express menu is exceptional value. One course for $32pp, two courses for $39, or go the full monty with three for $49. The deal also includes a glass of house wine or a beer or soft drink.
We do see a wine list, and it's quite an extensive one here, but we're content with the house wine. What a gamble! It's not poured at the table, which is always a worry, but when we're questioned we're told it's a Barossa shiraz and a Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Safe bets and they are drinkable.
We order quickly, surely part of the express deal is looking at the menu before you arrive and knowing what you want. We're doing the three courses, because why not.
I'll note here it took about 20 minutes from our order to get the entree on the table. The restaurant filled up very quickly and orders were coming in fast. From there dishes did come out in good time however.
There's a choice of three starters. We go with the Szechuan calamari with nam jim sauce and a pork belly with sticky chilli glaze and some cabbage slaw.
The calamari is lightly crumbed and fried, but is fresh and tender. A good portion size too, with slices rather than rings. The nam jim sauce is thick and has a little kick. A good combination.
The pork belly is a generous wedge, served whole. It's got char-grill crosses on it caramelised to perfection and the glaze is not too sweet.
There's quite a choice of main courses. From rump steak to a few burgers, some chicken skewers and pork spare ribs. There are a couple of vegetarian options, a roasted harissa cauliflower and a poke bowl which can be amended to suit. But the focus here is on meat.
Which is why we go with a 250g shorthorn rump and a lamb shoulder.
I love ordering steak medium rare, just to see if the chef will err on the side of rare, like they should. This time they do. It's perfectly cooked, they grill it here with a "unique basting sauce". Who knows what's in it, there's no mention on the menu, it adds a little flavour and a shine, I guess.
The steak comes with either chips or salad. I wonder why not both. Of course I choose carbs and the chips are excellent. Fat and thick, not greasy, full of fluffy potato.
The lamb looks fabulous, stacked on a bed of eggplant puree, served with pearl couscous, sun-dried tomatoes, chickpeas, with a touch of chimichurri and harissa. The flavours all work well, and textures. It's a shame the lamb is a little dry.
We're pushing the hour now. That was our goal. Could we fit in dessert before the time was up? Only just. Those five minutes at the start could have made all the difference.
Two quick desserts. A sticky date pudding which is well textured and tasty. The sweetness of the date caramel offset by the candied walnuts. It's served with a fior di latte gelato which is that non-vanilla vanilla, a milk ice cream made from straight milk. (Try the one at Spilt Milk Bar in Dickson.)
The creme brulee is spot on. The crust snaps on the spoon revealing a delicate custard which is smooth and just sweet enough. It's served with a little ginger snap finger biscuit, dotted with some whipped mascarpone. It probably wasn't polite to double dip but I did.
So it's taken a little over the hour. Still pretty express if we're talking Jack Waterford time. The former editor would like The Meat & Wine Co. There are plenty of reasons to hang around once time is up.
Meat & Wine Co
Address: 1 Constitution Ave, City
Phone: 02 51345988
Website: themeatandwineco.com
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, noon-10pm
Owners: Seagrass Boutique Hospitality Group
Chef: Kimberly Anne Nunag
Noise: Buzzing but conversation is easy
Vegetarian: A few options