More than 8000 wines were tasted for the 2023 companion, and these six local wines all scored 96 points, placing them alongside the nation's best. Jane Faulkner, who has been reviewing for the companion since 2016, was the Canberra District judge this vintage and she said the region "is small but mighty". Here's her pick.

Such a composed and classy wine. Yes, it has lemon blossom, ginger spice and citrus flavours - and tantalisingly so - but there's a depth that rightly puts this into premium territory. $60.

As pure as a spring day and smelling of a citrus orchard in bloom. A heady mix of lime and lemon sprinkled with ginger powder are just teasers, as this is complex and beguiling. $35.

A stunning wine. Pepper, baking spices, a smidge of eucalyptus and a savoury umami-seaweed note infuse the intense dark fruits, while a touch of smoky reduction adds an extra layer of complexity. $120.

An excellent flagship red, Superbly contained yet shapely, with the plummy spicy fruit wound into more savoury flavours: wood spice, pepper berries, ironstone and charcuterie. $110.

A new wine and a very welcome one in the classy Nick O'Leary stable. Pastilles, raspberries and cherries, earthy with baking spices, freshly rolled tobacco and potpourri. Top stuff. $34.

Fruit sourced from the Westering vineyard, one of the oldest riesling sites in the Canberra District, nudging 50 years. This wine's a babe in terms of youth and its charm. $38.

Faulkner said while the Canberra District is renowned for its distinctive riesling and cool-climate shiraz, it was a region that offered much more thanks to a coterie of innovative producers.

"Pioneers such as Clonakilla and Helm are certainly making beautiful wines but so too the likes of Bryan Martin at Ravensworth, Alex McKay at Collector Wines who crafts exceptional wine from Italian varieties, and Nick O'Leary who effortlessly moves between shiraz, riesling to tempranillo. And Lark Hill, a certified biodynamic producer established in 1978 is also making cracking gruner veltliner, the first to release one in Australia."

Four local wineries received the coveted red name/five-star rating Halliday's highest accolade which recognises a long track record of excellence. They were Clonakilla, Helm Wines, Mount Majura Vineyard and Nick O'Leary Wines. Collector Wines, Lark Hill and Lerida Estate received five black stars. Bryan Martin's Ravensworth received five red stars.

Martin lost out to Xanadu's Glenn Goodall for winemaker of the year. Nick O'Leary lost to Margaret River's Deep Woods Estate as best value winery.

Tyson Stelzer, as editor of the companion, said the 2020-21 proved a volatile vintage, acknowledging environmental, econmic and political factors which affected the wine industry.

"Given this volatile environment, it has never been more important for you to distinguish the truly great wines from the ocean of ho-hum, to anticipate the top vintages and to be ready to pounce the instant they land," he said.

"This year's results are a wonderful testimony to the tremendous divers of Australian wine at the top of its game."

Three Canberra District wines were shortlisted for varietal awards: the O'Leary tempranillo and riesling and the Clonakilla riesling.

The wine of the year went to Best's Wines Foudre Ferment Great Western 2021 riesling which also won white wine of the year. Sparkling wine of the year was a 2016 blanc de blanc from Gilbert Family Wines in Orange. Red wine of the year was a 2020 Quintet from Mount Mary wines in the Yarra Valley.