As I arrive in Sydney for a weekend being a "tourist", I admit to having more than a few reservations. I've got family in Sydney and head up the Hume at least 10 times a year for weekends in the Big Smoke. I've gone to shows at the Sydney Opera House, climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge and seen in a new year on the harbour.
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I can even navigate my way around the CBD without maps (most of the time).
But here I am, watching the mighty 1964 EH Holden Premier – billed as Australia's most popular car – roll up Queen Elizabeth Drive on Bondi Beach on a sweltering summer day. Richard Graham greets us with a smile, a bead of sweat glistening on the top of his well-groomed moustache. He has driven the EH Holden straight out of the '60s.
Graham runs My Sydney Detour – the flagship experience among his broader My Detour brand and one he describes as the perfect introduction to Sydney. And it really is. Graham's passion and enthusiasm for Sydney and its history consume me within minutes. Sydney is all about the city, beach and bush, he says.
Our tour takes us from heaving Bondi Beach to our first stop – Parsley Bay in Vaucluse. It's hard to believe we're only a few kilometres from Bondi. A handful of families savour the surroundings, and it's refreshing to hear the sounds of children's laughter echoing around the million-year-old sandstone walls. I could be on the north Western Australia coast if not for the stunning views of Sydney's famous landmarks in the background.
Our group ends up at LP's Quality Meats for dinner. Off a small alley in Chippendale, we're greeted by a spectacularly loud, open building – it's apparently an old mechanic's garage. Former Tetsuya head chef Luke Powell is the mastermind behind the place, and it's not going to be for everyone (vegetarians – that means you). But it is for me.
We're talking smoked beef short ribs, smoked chicken, smoked lamb belly, pork belly rolled with fennel, chilli and garlic, smoked sausage. But it's the sides that make the meat really sing. The asparagus, hazelnuts and yoghurt work well, and the mashed potato and gravy are apparently a whole-day work in process: you can tell – it's the best I've ever eaten. The kale with chickpeas was an accidental order, but sweet-mother-of-God it's good. For me it's the anchovy caramel that makes this side so good, not too overpowering and fishy, just the perfect amount of saltiness to work with the caramel. I roll out the door, satisfied and with a bad case of meat sweats.
After a good night's sleep in Surry Hills at 57 Hotel – think New York's famous Studio 54, complete with disco balls in the elevator – it's time to start the day as we ended it – with a good hearty feed.
We head to the QT Hotel for breakfast. Normally I wouldn't think twice about eating at a hotel restaurant if I wasn't staying there. It's just not on. But why not? The QT is in the heart of the city on Market Street, and stepping in to Gowings Bar and Grill is to step on to the set of The Great Gatsby film. I do a quick double take, making sure Leo isn't sitting at the bar with a cigar. The food is good, servings are generous, and I jump on the Manly ferry with the pants just a little tighter around the waist.
Head to Lake Burley Griffin on any weekend and you'll more than likely see a group of people effortlessly gliding around the Kingston Foreshore waters. I've tried stand-up paddleboarding in Canberra with mediocre success. I was too concerned about falling in.
So I'm rather hesitant about giving it another go – in the ocean no less – at Manly Harbour. But once I'm over the irrational fear of getting wet, I'm sorted. The owner of Manly Kayak Centre, Craig Moulds, reckons SUPing is becoming one of the most popular water sports. He's banking on that theory too as the creator of SUPball – described as "rugby on water". The game combines netball, water polo and lacrosse, all while standing on a paddleboard. After seeing an improvised game while on the water, I decide to finetune my turns rather than take on the experts.
Kyle Mackey-Laws was a guest of Destination NSW.
No clubs, no worries
It happens to me on almost every holiday. I'm checking out the sights, admiring the views and bam! I pass an immaculately maintained golf course and immediately regret not packing my golf clubs. But with LuxGolf, that's not my problem anymore. The brainchild of Travis Bruinsma, LuxGolf provides golfers with access to the most exclusive, prestigious and private golf clubs in Australia.
I'm picked up at 57 Hotel, given a set of top-quality clubs and balls and dropped off at St Michael's Golf Club for 18 holes. The guys from LuxGolf are waiting for me at the end of my round and take me back to the hotel. It's a top-class service and a great way to play some of the best courses in the country.
Hungry? Here's a good start
El Loco: Chef Dan Hong's entry into Mexican food is a winner. Think tacos, hotdogs, chicken wings and Mexican beers, cocktails and margaritas. The place is heaving with the after-work crowd, so be sure to book.
The Clock Hotel: Friday night pub grub and drinks on Crown Street. It's an institution in Surry Hills.
The Bucket List: Fresh seafood on Bondi's beachfront – it's the perfect place to relax and people watch.
Papi Chulo: Another beachside diner, this time at Manly wharf. The menu's chock full of South American goodness, and you won't leave hungry.
Gowings Bar and Grill: The restaurant inside QT Hotel styles itself on a classic European brasserie. It's worth checking out just to admire the funky decor.
LP's Quality Meats: Meat, meat and more meat. Complete with Australia's only "Southern Pride Smoker", LP's offers delicious smoked meats. Don't forget to try the sides.
