Where though? I'm in Murrumbateman and would have more chance of discovering the Higgs boson under the back seat of my ute than a noodle bar anywhere in the vicinity.

But I have fond memories if a little hole-in-the-wall noodle bar in the city, so that's where we're heading. Goes to show I'll travel a long way, without the beneficial acceleration a second-hand Tevatron would give, for the chance of some good nosh.

We're at Tasuke in the beautifully appointed bus interchange just off East Row on Alinga Street. It's an area I know well, with lots of happy, hazy tequila memories of roaming around here at night and through to the dawn hours in a youth partly wasted. But not completely, because I found my life partner, who is running late as usual, and we did grow up, being here with our third and youngest offspring.

Tasuke has been refurbished since our last visit, which was way back in 2007 - nothing huge, nothing fancy, just more orderly, elevated and solid furniture, a kitchen you can see more of and a cash register and Eftpos terminal, of all things.

The drawings of the food are still here, as is a huge menu to wade through, and the cute little soft-drink fridge that seems to have pride of place like some mini-whitegood god of sweet empty-caloried refreshments.

As I say, the menu has that crazy Japanese thing going on - huge, wildly confusing - and you get this feeling, unless you speak and read the language, that you are missing out on the most interesting stuff. No proof, just a feeling, like the one I get at home late at night that armed and dangerous vegetarians are trying to free my pigs. I manage to get a Japanese beer from the busy waiter and place our order.

We are eating soybeans, pork buns and gyosa. The three all seem fresh and plump. Edamame - soybeans - must be one of the healthiest finger snacks you can fiddle away with before a meal. I can feel them doing me good, as opposed to pork scratchings, a recent addition to my home repertoire, where you can start ticking off potential days from your life calendar. The fairly hefty price tag of $7 for a bowl of these green pods is mitigated by the fact that it's money in the bank for the next pork attack, and here it is.

Pork buns, yes (fist pump, times two) $6 for a deuce, are, I believe proof there is a god and he likes us being happy, if portly. What's better than a sweet bun wrapped around equally sweet pork? These carry a pleasing glazed outer skin and are soft and yielding inside. Yummo, we have two servings to prove the point.

Gyosa, interestingly another pork product, this time introduced to its best friend, cabbage and wrapped in a translucent skin, is another example of a food you can't get enough of. Chef Yuji Takeda adds a little wow factor by giving them the pot-sticker treatment of a damn fine searing. Can't really say much more about our eclectic nibbles, yin and yang I guess.

Next, we grab a pair okonomiyaki pancakes ($9). This is very much a bespoke dish, a pancake based on whatever is hanging around. They are thick, filled with stuff like grated potato, cabbage and flour, topped with a lacework pattern of barbecue sauce, mayo, probably Kewpie, and grated dried fish or prawn. They are a neat idea and definitely worth having a crack at if you have the time, a true savoury pancake with that touch of umami fishy flavour.

The focal point of the night - and why I've dragged half the family so far from home - is the wagyu set ($40), a plate of tender-as seared wagyu beef, wafer-thin, served with a bowl of miso and some soba noodles. This dish fulfils all my umami yearnings. It's not cheap but the beef is pretty good and there's plenty to share.

Our other substantial meal is a small plate of mixed fish sashimi ($19). There are many gauges of success as a parent: you want sporting prowess on the field, playing an instrument, singing like an angel and knowing when and when not to curse like a politician. Having our eight-year-old son excited about having some raw kingfish does it for me.

While the sashimi doesn't carry the perfection you get around the corner at Iori, the trio of raw cuts - tuna, kingfish and salmon - is pleasant and fresh, if a tad neutral.

Tasuke still exists in its own little world. There's no glitz or pretence here, and I'm still amazed at the sheer size and range that is pumped out from such a small kitchen.

Address: 122 Alinga Street, city
Phone: 6257 9711
Owner: Yuji Takeda
Chef: Yuji Takeda
Hours: Lunch Monday to Saturday noon to 4pm, dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6pm to 1opm
Licensed: No, BYO only, corkage $4 a person
Vegetarian: Yes, heaps
To pay: Mastercard, Visa, Eftpos
Wheelchair access: Steps and tight space, probably not recommended
Seats: 35 inside

Food: 2/4
Wine list: n/a
Style: 2/4
Value for money: 2/4
Service: 1/4

Score 13/20

Summary: A little, hole-in-the-wall sushi and noodle bar, with a surprisingly big menu that feels like it holds the key to the diversity of the known universe.

11 something went wrong. 12 not so great tonight. 13 fine for a cheap and cheerful, not so for a place that aspires to the top end. 14 good. 15 really good. 16 great, when can we move in. 17-20 brilliant. The stars are a quick reference to the key highs or lows. They do not relate directly to the score out of 20.

Bryan Martin is a winemaker at Ravensworth and Clonakilla, www.bryanmartin.com.au