The dining room might be a little bit fancy, but the menu is relaxed

The venue, where Zoo Bar used to be, on the corner of London Circuit and University Avenue, has been transformed into something special. Designed by Braddon developer Nik Bulum, the colour scheme is neutral whites and creams, textures are stone and velvet, sheer linen curtains separate the tables giving some privacy in a large space, illuminated by tiered chandeliers.

There's a brown velvet banquette along one wall in front of the bar, with an old safe tucked in one corner - the site used to house the ANZ bank, and the old vaults are now cool rooms.

"I'd love to know what's in it," says general manager Jamahl Bakri. "But we don't know where the key is!"

Instead, you can bank on the Greek-leaning, Mediterranean-inspired menu from John Santos.

You can either grab some bread and dips, or create your own mezze platter, with choices of cheese, meats and vegetables such as balsamic marinated mushrooms.

Maybe some small plates of phyllo-wrapped baked feta with honey and pistachio crumbs; classic saganaki topped with honey, chilli, oregano and lemon; or everyone's favourite, spanakopita.

Mains ramp up the flavours: chicken souvlaki with shawarma spiced vegetables; grilled flathead with preserved lemon gremolata; or lamb cutlets with feta yoghurt, pistachios, oregano and lemon potatoes.

"We've had customers come in and tell us the food takes them straight back to Greece," says Bakri.

While the room might look expensive, the menu is good value. Small plates start at $8 for some prawn rolls with feisty feta and avocado. Mains start from $19 for some slow-cooked lamb gyros. The $19 baklava cheesecake with phyllo, cream cheese and walnuts looks delicious too.

There's a fun cocktail menu with a Greek twist. The Ouzo-tini, with ouzo, Lillet Blanc, lemon, agave and mint is stylish; and the Icy Karpouzi is a popular choice, with watermelon ice cubes, vodka and Pavan liqueur.

The wine list includes choices from Greece, alongside Australian and European varietals. There are non-alcoholic options as well.

"While we're primarily a restaurant, people are more than welcome to come in for drinks and mezze plates," says Bakri.

Indeed, the space is even more than that. Anyone who remembers Zoo Bar, or even the Uni Pub, knows there's a few levels of fun upstairs. These themed rooms are available for hire for any occasion.

Whether you're after a casual night of pool and partying in Hustler; or a cocktail in the classy No Vacancy, styled like a hotel lobby; or want to dance the night away at the Mile High Club, there's a space for whatever your taste and occasion.

Alia, 17 London Circuit, City.

Open Wednesday to Thursday, 11.30am-3pm, 5-10pm. Friday to Saturday, 11.30-am-3pm, 4.30-midnight.

aliabar.com.au