Everyone has a favourite restaurant. That favourite may change with time - new places open up, old places close down. But when someone asks for recommendations of where to go, you always have something to suggest.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
or signup to continue reading
If I had a dollar for every time someone told me their favourite restaurant was Rebel Rebel, I wouldn't be rich, but I probably would have enough to take myself out to dinner. That's not what's happening with dinner this evening - the meal is not paid by crowd-funding. But I do wish that I had come in sooner.
Walking in, you're met with a bright Pop Art print of the man who inspired this Acton gem's namesake - David Bowie. It's the only overt nod to the namesake, but I think the late musician would have loved this blend of industrial interiors with asymmetrical Cathedral-like ceilings and pops of pink and yellow hidden in the otherwise monochromatic palate.
Before we go any further, I need to say the service is top-notch this evening - a perfect blend of knowledge, attentiveness and effortlessly cool. I have never been congratulated on my choice of menu items before, but when our server for this evening does this, you can't help but feel like a winner.
I also love the pace of this evening. The name of the game is to share what comes out of the kitchen - although you can have individual dishes if you like - and I appreciate that each dish comes out solo and perfectly timed. It gives you a chance to enjoy what's on the plate, without being distracted by something else.
We start the evening with the capocollo with fresh figs and ricotta ($24). Each piece of the capocollo is soft and tender, with delicate saltiness and deep fat veins running through the thinly cut slice, making it the perfect choice of meat for the dish. It's paired with large chunks of fig - which have been slightly smashed to create a thick, fat bed for the meat to lie on - that adds a super sweet element and there's also a tang from some balsamic. I would have liked a little more ricotta, but that's just because I loved the creaminess that it added to the overall dish.
On to the octopus with skordalia and pine nuts ($32) and it's quite the sight to behold. One large, meaty tentacle has been chargrilled and then curled onto the skordalia - a type of Greek potato and garlic dip that is almost like a smooth mashed potato. The octopus is super tender - the suckers are just falling off the meat - and the potato gives it heartiness.
The next dish - the fioretto with burnt butter, capers and nori ($24) - I chose because I had never tried the broccolini/cauliflower hybrid that is fioretto before. Paired with the burnt butter, there's a rich nuttiness and warmth to the dish, with the capers adding pops of saltiness. On the side is a cauliflower puree that is so light it's almost foam-like, and it really lifts the dish, adding almost a sweetness to it. With the umami of the nori sprinkled over the top, this has everything.
For what we would traditionally call "mains" - although, nothing is really separated on the menu aside from some sides, and the desserts - we opt to share the 600g grass-fed rib eye with wakame butter ($85), and add a side of green beans, preserved lemon, feta and pistachio ($12).
Interestingly, we weren't asked how we wanted the meat cooked, but it lands on our table medium, with a big knob of the wakame butter on top. The meat itself is tender and mouthwatering and would have been delicious without any toppings. The wakame butter and all its umami greatness melting over it just elevated it. I'm not sure I'll be able to have steak any other way again.
When it came to the beans, we spent this part of the meal trying to work out how to recreate them, we enjoyed them that much. The beans themselves had the perfect level of crunch. They were then coated in a yoghurt-based sauce, as well as some fresh dill and mint, dukkah and pistachios. They were so moreish and if Rebel Rebel could give me the recipe, I would be forever grateful.
Rounding out the meal, we chose the strawberry and bay leaf ice-cream sanga ($18). As soon as it landed on the table, we knew it was going to be delightfully fun. The biscuit was almost like a wafer-thin macaron, with that sticky crunch. It encased the two layers of ice cream - the bright pink of the strawberry and the mint green of the bay leaf - neither of which were overpowering in flavour. Somehow this was super nostalgic and completely fresh all at the same time.
It was the perfect final number that had just as much style and substance as David Bowie himself.
So yes, I can see why so many people call Rebel Rebel their favourite restaurant. And yes, I do regret not coming here sooner.
Because now when people ask me what my favourite restaurant is, Rebel Rebel will certainly be on that list.
Rebel Rebel
Address: 23 Marcus Clarke St, Acton
Phone: 6248 8548
Website: rebelrebeldining.com.au.
Hours: Monday to Wednesday, 5pm to late. Thursday to Sunday, 12pm to late.
Chef: Sean McConnell
Noise: Not a problem
Dietary: Options available