Prime Minister Malcolm Turnbull's official wine list has doubled since Tony Abbott was in office but industry experts have slammed it as conservative, boring and embarrassing.
When Mr Turnbull retires to The Lodge in Canberra or entertains dignitaries at Kirribilli House in Sydney, he has more than 370 bottles on offer worth close to $9000.
But it appears his sommelier may be honouring the age-old tradition of buying the second cheapest bottle of wine available. The average bottle of wine costs just $25.
John Leyshon, president of the Canberra District Wine Industry, said some of the wines on offer were embarrassing.
"The average cost of each bottle is very low for something as prestigious as the Prime Minister's cellar," he said.
"If I were the Prime Minister I would be spending a lot more on my wine list. Transferring the money that would be spent on just one helicopter journey could improve the cellar no end."
The Prime Minister's wine list is routinely detailed by his own department each year, prompting despair from some industry figures who would rather it showcase the best of Australian wines.
The most expensive bottle available is a 2000 Canberra Federation Red Magnum Wine worth $86, which has been labelled a dud by one wine critic, who said it "never lived up to its billing, or even close to its billing".
After that, it's downhill to a $12 bottle of Moscato from Barossa Valley; an affordable option for Prime Ministers and university students alike.
Nearly 60 per cent of the bottles comes for Victoria or South Australia with four wines from the Canberra district and two from Tasmania.
Mr Leyshon said the wine list read as if it had been put together by sales representatives from wine companies with a lot of "pub wines" available.
"Some of the wines need to be retired," he said. "Perhaps a charity auction? Although given the quality of those wines it would not raise much money."
In 2014, the Prime Minister's cellars were stocked with 170 bottles worth close to $4700. The cheapest option was five bottles of $12.89 Yarrabank Vintage Cuvee 2004, which have been reduced to two.
Gone too are the 10 bottles of Elderton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, which were listed in Kevin Rudd's cellar at $7.92 each.
Wine writer Chris Shanahan said the cellars were in a sorry state and little care have been given to rotating stock
"The list overall is a patchwork of bits and pieces, littered with too many tired old wines, and too many different sweeties and bubbles in small quantities," he said.
"A carefully managed, fast-moving feast of our regional specialties, on the other hand could thrill his guests."
The Prime Minister's wine cellar remains a sensitive issue given the involvement of taxpayer funds, particularly in times of austerity.
John Howard tested the waters in 2001 by hiring a wine consultant to suggest upgrades to his cellar for a rumoured $15,000. He was grilled about the contract in parliament.
"I have to confess that although I do enjoy a drink, Mr Speaker, and that is known, Mr Speaker, and it is not a matter of which I am ashamed," Mr Howard said.