But finally it's time to start mixing those pisco sours. LATAM (the merged South American airline) started flying to Australia again in March (via New Zealand) and now Qantas has announced it will connect Sydney and Santiago again from October 30, just in time for the prime tourist season. Hola to Chile!

For some passengers, Santiago may just be a transit to tours in Peru, Antarctica cruises from Punta Arenas, or even Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (if your COVID body fared better than mine). But the rest of Chile is not to be overlooked and, in fact, Santiago is the gateway to one of the most spectacularly diverse countries in South America.

Santiago, nestled at the foothills of the Andes, lulls visitors into a false sense of calm by not boasting any famous international landmarks. But it doesn't take long to discover the neighbourhoods around the city centre are full of life, with food and drink spilling onto the streets long into the night (or morning, really). The dining scene in Santiago has attracted some of the world's best chefs, and the cosmopolitan flair is mirrored in the city's extravagant museums. Grand colonial buildings may line the streets and squares, but it is the modern arts and cultural scene that makes this such a dynamic place to visit.

Less than two hours from Santiago, the city of Valparaiso stretches down a series of hills that converge on the harbour, as though a giant hand is caressing the land from the coast. Valparaiso has long been a holiday escape for Santiago residents, but now enthrals foreign visitors with its colourful buildings, each a different hue (apparently because locals just used whatever leftover paint they found at the docks), creating an urban kaleidoscope. Getting lost is a joy as you wander the narrow alleys and staircases, opting for the colourful historic funicular when your legs need a rest.

From the sparkling coast to the shimmering desert, the orange and pink pastels of the Atacama Desert may be similar to Valparaiso, but the destinations could not be more different. Chile's remote northern desert resembles a Mars-scape, with salt flats and geysers amongst the rocky rust-coloured expanses. It's one of the driest places on the planet, which makes its lagoons even more remarkable (and saltier). Floating in the water, sandboarding down dunes, stargazing under the bright desert sky - there are endless adventures in the desert, through the remarkable landscapes and small communities that have survived for centuries in the harsh environment.

Many people believe Chile is the longest north-south country in the world, but it's actually beaten by Brazil by just 95 kilometres (a little fact for your next trivia night). Regardless, the country's incredible length just serves to highlight the magnificence of the Andes mountain range that stretches for almost the entirety of the border with Argentina. At its highest, the mountains are almost 7000 metres above sea level, but from anywhere in the country their snow-topped peaks form a distinctive backdrop. There are easy-to-reach treks to the mountain lakes of Cajon del Maipo near Santiago, or you can make the journey to the eerie abandoned mining town of Sewell, a World Heritage Site that's protected the colourful community of dormitories and community buildings on the side of a stark and steep mountain.

Further south, approaching Patagonia, the volcano of Villarrica is noteworthy not just because it's one of Chile's most active, but because of how active you can be there too. Trekking companies lead visitors along a trail for several hours to the summit of the volcano, first along rocky stretches and then through channels carved out of ice. After taking in the view into the billowing crater, you can toboggan down the snow towards the town of Pucon near the base. Pucon has become the adventure capital of Chile, offering hiking, kayaking, white-water rafting, and skiing.

And, finally, I've saved the best for last, because it's in the south of Chile, in the depths and heights of Patagonia, where you'll find the country's richest treasures. Torres del Paine National Park gets most of the attention, with its striking mountains, enormous glaciers, and piercingly blue lakes. The five-day W Trek through the national park is one of the most picturesque walks in the world. But it's the interplay between the mountains and the waters in other parts that makes the Chilean side of Patagonia so special, with archipelagos and fjords along the coastline also offering incredible cruising opportunities. You can spend days in the remote wilderness with just a backpack or retreat to luxurious lodges with epic views.

From geysers in the north, to glaciers in the south; from a worldly city in Santiago, to the end of the world in Patagonia. There's more to do in Chile than you'll be able to fit into one trip - but thankfully, with those new direct flights, it doesn't have to be a once-in-a-lifetime destination.

You can see more things to do in Chile on Michael Turtle's Time Travel Turtle website.