Is this the best trekking destination you've never heard of?

But, as a general rule, the higher you go, the better the reward. This time is no exception. Reaching the top of Laudden Pass, I look over to the other side to find dramatic snow-covered mountains framing the background, the dazzling Kulikalon Lakes stretching out below, with verdant trees, rich brown earth, and dazzling blue sky adding vibrance to the whole scene.

This is Tajikistan. More specifically, the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan. It's one of the world's most spectacular trekking destinations - yet it's also one of the least visited, which only adds to the sense of adventure.

If you don't know much about Tajikistan, you may not think of it as a country for hiking, but it's one of the best things you can do here (probably in second place to exploring the heritage of the Silk Road). Traditionally, it was the Pamir Mountains in the east of the country that got most of the attention from hikers because of the monumental peaks soaring up to 7000 metres. But that also made trips there much more challenging. Here in the Fann Mountains, the treks are still not for the faint-hearted - but they're much more accessible for average travellers who want to spend a few days in the wilderness as part of a broader holiday to Central Asia.

My chest-pounding leg-aching climb up to Laudden Pass at 3200 metres is the first day's feat - but it's not the highest I'll have to go on this loop. The second day brings another big uphill trek, this time to the 3800-metre-high Alauddin Pass. Its approach of rocky zigs and zags is tough but also offers some incredible views: Mountains forming striking shapes and angles, topped with snow occasionally merging with clouds, and glittering alpine lakes of turquoise nestled below them.

One of the reasons I'm able to enjoy the vistas as I trek is because I'm only carrying a backpack with my personal belongings. All of the camp equipment, food, and other supplies for our group of six are being hauled by donkeys led by a couple of local guides. This small support team will not only show us the way, they'll also set up our tents and cook the meals. To arrange a guided tour like this with a local operator, I would recommend contacting the Artuch Alplager Guesthouse, which charges around $100 per person a day, depending on the size of your group.

While the mountains create the drama during the day, it's the lakes that offer the serenity at night, because their shores are where you'll find the main campsites through the Fann Mountains. In the early evening, there's a glorious calm as hikers rest their legs while the last light disappears from the mountaintops. Even better is the morning's sunrise revealing the scenery once more, night becoming blue then yellow, the air crisp and clean before the heat of the day.

But we're not just camping by the lakes for the scenery. Although this part of Tajikistan is still relatively wild and uninhabited, there is now a little bit of infrastructure for hiking tourists - and you'll find it by the water, normally spaced about a day's walk apart, just where people will be ready to stop for the night.

I'm hiking for three days on a popular route called the Fann Lakes Circuit, which means two nights of camping. At both lakes where we stop - Kulikalon and Alauddin - there are a couple of small shops where local families sell basic food and drinks (including some much-appreciated cold beer). At Alauddin Lake, there's even a drop toilet (while Kulikalon is a 'find somewhere in the bushes' situation).

This infrastructure, however limited, means you could do a hike like this independently, especially as the Artuch Alplager Guesthouse can even rent you equipment like tents and sleeping bags. The cost to stay at the campsites is only a few dollars a night per person, and the shops will normally be able to sell you hot meals, to cut down on what you need to carry (although obviously you should be prepared for any situation).

You don't come here for the cooking, you come for the scenery, and these panoramas are constantly breathtaking, from the jagged mountains to the glittering lakes, with epic valleys, stretches of forests, and fascinating rock formations. It feels wild and untouched, with very few other tourists passing on the trails, yet there are just enough facilities and tour operators for you to feel comfortable doing a trip as an average visitor.

If you are feeling particularly active and want a trek to be the focus of your time in Central Asia, there are also some excellent trails that take a bit longer than the Fann Lakes circuit I'm on. In particular, there is a six-day route from Alaudin Lake to Seven Lakes that completely traverses the Fann Mountains, leading you to the most spectacular lakes and with a stunning view of the range's tallest point, the 5489-metre-high Chimtarga Peak.

Tajikistan's Fann Mountains may be the best trekking destination you've never heard of, but I wonder if that will continue to be the case. It will always be one of the best - but for how much longer will it be considered unknown?