Toni Maticevski's evolution from WAG dresser to our own version of Alexander McQueen is complete.
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The Melbourne-born designer kicked off the new-look resort wear Fashion Week Australia on Sunday with a large scale show sponsored by Mercedes-Benz. Not a star studded front row, including Lindy Klim – former wife of Olympic swimming champion Michael – with a new partner in tow, nor the deep pockets of the German automotive dealer could overshadow the raw talent of the Macedonian-Australian designer.
Renowned internationally for eschewing commercial trends and channelling his creativity into voluminous looks that retail for thousands of dollars, his resort 2017 collection was a departure from last season's romantic, flourishing frocks.
There is now a darker mood about Maticevski. The billowing dresses are still there but in shades of three-day old cream, onyx and the blue of cartoon tears. The looks were more restrained – literally – with models in sky-high, pencil-thin heels teetering on a polished marble runway with their hands shackled behind their back by crystal Ryan Storer handcuffs and gagged by balls resembling smaller versions of those seen on Adelaide's Rundle Street Mall.
His trademark full skirted silhouette was in full flight of fancy, this time with additional extras including baroque brocade tails, leather and zips. Two piece suits and skirts were form fitting yet fitted with ropes of fabric here and sexy cut outs there, all telling a story, similar to that of Fifty Shades of Grey except more expertly executed.
Like McQueen's work, Maticevski's fashion evokes emotion and this time it was one of pain, sensuality and edginess. The soundtrack coincidentally included songs by two of today's most tormented male stars – Justin Bieber and former One Direction black sheep Zayn Malik.
The only hint of softness was via a new hue – a buttery yellow that was displayed on cigarette trousers, pencil skirts and an innovative shape that resembled a balcony over the bust. A look not seen since the late, full-bosomed model Anne Nicole Smith was seen in court fighting the estate of her oil tycoon husband in the early 21st century.
Fashion Week Australia continues on Monday at Carriageworks with 69 designers set to stage 44 showcases over the next five days.
