Modern take on the traditional

I've always found my experiences hard to reconcile with the idea of fine dining, its delicate plating and small portions. Fine dining Asian food is especially difficult to pull off, at least in my opinion – it has to be conveyed with the same skill and generosity of family banquets but with more finesse.

Chairman & Yip walks that line and does it well. It's hard to believe that the restaurant is more than 25 years old. One of Canberra's modern day dining institutions – it is in its second incarnation at the Burbury Hotel having moved from the city a few years ago.

Dark and moody, the dining room is a modern take on a traditional Chinese restaurant. The dark gloss tables and red accent chandeliers add an air of sophistication and the aroma of fried prawns and steamed rice linger in the air, warm and welcoming.

I love one-page menus, and this one has just six entrees, seven mains and a greens option. All dishes are designed to share, though you can have them in the Western style of entree and mains if you'd prefer. There's also a tasting menu for $88 if you're feeling indecisive and a banquet menu for large groups.

Chairman's wine list is Australian focused with a few select drops from other famous wine regions. By-the-glass picks are considered and there's a good selection to pair with the flavours on the food menu.

The steamed prawn and pumpkin dumplings ($20.50) are simple on the plate – almost deceptively so, served with a broth and a garnish of green sprouts. The prawn broth is somewhere between a laksa and a bisque, complex, deep and sweet with a lingering chilli kick and a hint of spice.

The wagyu beef tataki ($25.50) is a deep red with a dark, charred exterior. Burnt soy and miso add complexity; like eating gently layered umami notes that all build on each other and a garnish of finely julienned leek brings texture and freshness.

Bright red cubes of rhubarb peek out from between the stir-fried vegetables ($18.50). I've never had rhubarb in a stir fry before, but it's a good addition, a nice tweak on an otherwise conventional dish.

One of the Chairman's classics, the eye fillet beef and scallop pepper hotpot ($38.50) isn't just a token surf and turf option either. It's lightly smoky from the char on the bottom of the hot plate and there's sweetness from the scallops and earthiness from mushrooms; the balance of flavour and texture makes the whole dish immensely moreish.

King prawn with mixed peppercorn ($40.50) is another exercise in fine Chinese cooking technique. Crisp prawns and florets of cauliflower are lightly tossed with a mixture of peppercorns. It's crunchy, spicy and so simple – the flecks of Sichuan pepper tingle on the tongue reminding you to go back for more.

With so much Asian flavour on display, it's a little disappointing that the desserts don't all stay true to their mantra of modern Cantonese. There is oolong cloud or sticky toffee ginger cake, but raspberries with lemon curd and vanilla bean pannacotta don't seem particularly Cantonese. There's also a cheese board – which seems strangely out of place here.

Fortunately, there's one last serve of sticky toffee ginger cake for two ($16.50) left. It's warm and comforting, an earthy ginger cake with chunks of crystallised ginger through it, topped with tea spiced walnuts and salted caramel ice-cream.

There's a restrained elegance on display at Chairman & Yip. There's an experienced hand that is evident in the dishes, a firm foundation of excellent technique with innovative touches that make each dish interesting. Service is polite and to the point, accommodating but not overly friendly, but the food will always keep us coming back.

Score:16/20

Chairman & Yip

Address: 1 Burbury Close, Barton

Owner: Josiah Li

Chefs: Arthur Tsui and William Suen

Lunch: Tuesday to Friday, noon-2.30pm

Dinner: Monday to Saturday, 6-10.30pm

Vegetarian: A couple of good options

Noise: Fine for a chat

Wheelchair access: Yes