Rick Stein at Bannisters Mollymook a restaurant for special occasions

And that's the thing about Stein, many, if not all, of his dishes tell a story. A fish curry he found in India, one of his favourite places; the patata bravas he tried in Spain as a 16-year-old on his first overseas trip alone; every dish is a journey.

And, for this review, I've made the journey to Mollymook. It's that time of year when we're allowed to wander a little further afield, dip our reviewing toes in warmer waters so to speak. Summer is a time for catching up with old friends, ocean views, the freshest seafood, and tonight I've got all three.

Indeed, is there a better view than the one from the Pool Bar at Bannisters? Out over the infinity pool to the Pacific Ocean beyond. The menu here is nibbles and gourmet pizzas, it's a great place to spend warm summer evenings with a glass of something, casual vibes but food that's still a little elevated.

But tonight we're in the main restaurant. You can still catch glimpses of the ocean, moreso if you've been lucky enough to be seated on the deck. It's busy for a midweek sitting, families, couples, a few larger tables of friends, there's even a newish baby, perhaps the young couple's first weekend away since the birth.

For it is a special place. My friend, a former Canberra Times colleague who now lives in Mollymook, says they make it here a couple of times a year for special birthdays and anniversaries.

The menu reflects Stein's travels, with a mix of dishes inspired by different destinations, Asia, the sub-continent, Africa even. It reflects Australia too, and Stein's advocacy of local producers, he's been known to head down to the port at nearby Ulladulla to source the freshest seafood.

We're keen to sample a few things. We started with a serve of the fish croquetas ($18), three crispy mouthfuls of delicately fried fish with touches of tomato and basil, with a dash of aioli. They're a flavourful mouthful.

You're able to order oysters ($7 each) and scallops ($8 each) individually, so we mix it up a little and get a couple of each. The scallops with coriander and hazelnut butter are apparently on the menu of all his restaurants and you can see why. They're perfectly cooked, just a little firm, the butter is rich, offset by the coriander. The oysters are from the Shoalhaven region, plump and full of the sea as all good oysters should be.

Next is the kingfish ceviche ($32), a delicate dish complemented by pickled chilli, avocado, tomato and orange. The fish is thinly sliced, and perfectly "cooked", it's a fine dish in both presentation and flavour.

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The coconut chilli prawns ($34) take us to India with touches of chilli, coconut and coriander. Four plump prawns swimming in a delicious broth, which you can mop up with the cumin puris, a simple bread which is a kind of cross between a papadum and a flatbread. It's a dish I'm keen to try at home, both the prawns and the bread, and I'm pleased when I find both recipes in his book Seafood Odyssey.

From India we duck over to Morocco with a tagine, brimming with mussels, squid, prawns and chunks of firm fish ($49). It's light but substantial at the same time, with carrot, potatoes, olives and tomatoes, all refreshed by a chermoula and fresh herbs. This broth is delicious too, a slice of charred sourdough a welcome addition to, again, mop things up, so to speak.

The star dish of the night is the whole snapper ($52) which whips us back to Asia. It's a perfectly roasted fish, served with ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, crispy garlic and shallots. The flesh comes away easily from the bones, it's quite a plump little fish and there's plenty of meat. The skin in crisp in places too which is nice, the fish easy to flip to access the other side. I'm sure there's a more delicate way of eating whole fish but I haven't found it.

It's always hard to go past creme brulee ($20) on a dessert menu, this one is well-cooked, a crack of the sugar, a little biscuit to scoop up the custard. The Malaga raisin ice cream ($21) is like a posh rum and raisin, served as an affogato of sorts alongside a shot of Pedro Ximenez sherry and hot espresso in a tall cocktail glass.

It's hard not to see Stein in the menu, but all credit in the kitchen goes to head chef Remi Lachiaille who made his own journey to Mollymook from the south-west of France in 2020. It must be hard to cook food attached to someone else's name but he's obviously enjoying his time here. His partner Marina Jaques, manages the restaurant and the wine list, which is extensive, with both Australian and international drops on offer.

As the sun sets over the ocean, we're reminded that while Stein has travelled the world, perhaps he agrees with us that Australia is indeed the lucky country. We're not limited by local flavours, we're keen to adopt and find ways to showcase our freshest produce. Rick Stein Mollymook reminds us of that in every dish. You'll find me out near the pool.

Address: 191 Mitchell Parade, Mollymook

Phone: 44547400

Website: bannisters.com.au

Hours: Dinner, 6-9.30pm, seven days; Lunch, 12.30-4pm, Saturday and Sunday.

Chef: Remi Lachiaille

Noise: No problem

Dietary: One or two vegetarian options

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