A crucial technique of kitchen organisation in France is the concept of "mise en place", which means "everything in its place". Chefs spend many hours washing, cutting and measuring ingredients in the time before service. If this is done correctly and precisely, it's just down to the technique, execution and seasoning of the dish to make the magic happen. Owner-chef Clement Chauvin has been working his whole life to ensure that everything is "in its place". Hailing from Lyon, France, he arrived in Canberra with an exceptional cooking pedigree, which included working under Nicolas Lebec, Gordon Ramsay and Matt Kemp. Clement wears his heritage on his rather buff sleeve, and you can feel his genuine pride that you have chosen to dine at his restaurant.
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The room is well built, with dark timber shutters, red velvet curtains, linen napkins and soft, ambient lighting, plus the classic French tradition of a fresh flower on each table. We are ready to take on this menu which is $98 for three courses. There is also an option for degustation and plenty of great aperitifs, beers and wines to choose from, mostly from the homeland. I kick off with a Phoenix beer ($12) which I've never seen before, but some close family members inform me that it's a core staple in "French" Mauritius. My wife feels it would be an offence not to indulge in a French 75.
Amuse-bouche translates directly to "amuses the mouth" and it is considered to be a "gift from the kitchen". Tonight, it comes as a trio. The pork rillette, with a fine slither of cornichon on top, is excellent. The duck liver parfait with a dollop of cherry jam is outstanding. But the boursin, encased in a beetroot macaron, is mind-blowing. The flavour combination is not unusual, but the idea of creating a savoury macaron, spiked with bright pink beetroot, filled with creamy cheese mousse, and garnished with a sprig of dill, is a culinary revolution. I'd love a box of these for Christmas.
Quail and foie gras terrine comes with smoked duck breast, raspberry dressing and pickled rhubarb. It is a lovely, comforting entree, and the flavours in the sauce walk a tightrope between sweet and savoury. The soup de jour is a caramelised onion consomme, with comte foam and onion tarte tatin. It's basically French onion soup but it's far from basic. The consomme is highly extracted from a semi-trailer load of onions, and it has an intense umami character. It sits lurking under a warm cloud of comte froth, and a perfect half onion baked in pastry sits upside down just smiling at the diner. Meanwhile we slurp (in a sophisticated, French way) on a glass of Charles Frey Granite riesling from Alsace ($20) which jumps from the glass with grapefruit-like acid and minerality, slicing perfectly through the richness of both entrees.
Service sits under the charismatic eye of industry legend Chris Margherita, who rates as one of the top restaurant service staff south of the Loire. It's not just that Chris knows his craft so well, but if you listen carefully, you will hear him sprout such gems as "let's freshen you up with a glass of champagne", "time to strap yourself in for the journey" and "I just hope that it's edible". He knows everybody in town, is humble, and the good humour he brings to the table is first class.
Fish of the day is a remarkably fresh lemon sole, rolled and adorned with a scallop boudin, served on a white risotto studded with pippies. It's perfectly cooked and delicately presented. Our second main is a beetroot and goat's cheese raviole, with du Puy lentil, sticky beetroot, horseradish foam and snow pea tendrils. It's like the sequel to our beetroot macaron, and the sequel is just as good as the original. The classic accompaniment of petits pois - green peas with braised onion, speck and lettuce - sits in a stock base which is reduced with a mountain of butter.
Poached quince with honey oat crumble and Majura truffled yoghurt sorbet is a refreshing dessert with some zing from the sorbet and some ping from the truffle. A rustic, golden caramelised tarte tatin with cinnamon ice cream is picture perfect. I can't remember a better executed dessert in this town. There is a golden chew to the butter-flaked pastry, and the warm apple slices pop through the surface of the tarte.
There has always been a tension in French restaurant kitchens between tradition and innovation. This restaurant moves from one to the other, and back again, with seamless effort. But the real Les Bistronomes magic is in the connection between back and front of house, where the energy, hustle and ambience all come together and the team delivers as one. As Chris farewells his guests goodnight with a few kisses and hugs, I get a distinct feeling that being here is to be at the heart of Canberra's best French dining experience. And one of our best dining experiences, full stop.
Les Bistronomes
Address: 18 Blamey Place, Campbell
Phone: 6248 8119
Website: lesbistronomes.net
Hours: Open Tuesday to Saturday, for lunch and dinner.
Chef: Clement Chauvin
Dietary: Limited options
Noise: No problem
