Chester Mok has long been considered one of Canberra's best sommeliers and now he's opening his own "passion project", Romanee Wine Bar.
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For the past three years he's been the consultant sommelier for Dear Prudence, and has previously worked at Aubergine, Waters Edge and Monster Kitchen and Bar.
Situated off Lonsdale Street in Braddon, where Alcove used to be in the Branx building, Romanee will be open Thursday to Saturday, from 4pm until late.
"The aim of the bar is to pour interesting wines and showcase some back vintages from our cellar," says Mok.
"And I'll be pouring plenty by the glass too. If I feel like pouring something, I'll open the bottle because I want to."
He'll be ably assisted by manager Isobel Owens, and will call on other industry friends such as Benito Drovandi (Verity Lane) and Gerald Ong (Project Enoki) for the occasional pop-up.
While Romanee is named after a winery and area in Burgundy known for the world's most expensive pinot noir, Mok says it's crucial that hospitality venues offer something for someone at every price point.
"Whether you want to come in for a glass after work and a little snack, or settle in for dinner with an expensive bottle, we can offer both," he says.
Wines by the glass include a 2008 Vintage blanc de noir sparkling; a range of interesting whites such as Picpoul de pinet (think Riesling but more pear and mineral); and some interesting reds such as Montepulciano (think merlot but with more spice) and Touriga nacional (like a Barossa shiraz but with a whole lot of spice thrown in).
He'll also offer a selection of cocktails using his own Winechest spirits made from distilled wine. We're keen to see how he transforms the bacon and maple liqueur and bacon vodka he developed while working at the Pialligo Estate Smokehouse.
The former chef says the menu will focus on fresh produce. He's at the Capital Region Farmers Markets of a weekend, checking out what's in season.
There'll be a range of snacks, share plates and mains. Think compressed watermelon bites with chevre and mint, turned into little burgers; tempura prawns with kaffir lime and chili mayo; classic cheese and charcuterie plates to share.
"For mains, I'm keen to do this chicken ballotine, with Canowindra free-range chicken, chestnut puree and seasonal veg."
From the street you might miss it, but head down the driveway and you'll find it. There's room for 40 or so inside, and there's a courtyard space for 20. Inside, olive green booths are lit by large pendant lights, a banquette runs along the front window. The whole space has been opened up, heavy curtains removed.
"I want to get people out of their comfort zone when it comes to wine," says Mok. We can't think of a more suitable place to do just that.
Romanee Wine Bar. Unit 54/16 Lonsdale St, Braddon. Open Thursday to Saturday, 4pm until late.