In the four years that I've lived in Canberra, I have never once reviewed Terra, despite it being the place I eat at most often with friends. I live in fear of writing about my favourite restaurants then having people expect Michelin star levels of service, annoy the staff and generally ruin the vibe of the place.

Seeing as this is my last Canberra Times review though, I'm going to do it. Don't make me regret it.

Pushing open the heavy wooden door off Marcus Clarke Street, you're greeted by a gush of warm air. It's a small venue, cosy from the warmth of the open fire, and immediately a world away from the city outside. Whole chickens spin on the rotisserie and bottles of wine are lined up along the countertops.

Terra runs a short list of beers, some alcohol-free drinks, along with a smallish but well-curated wine list with a focus on minimal intervention wines. Picking from the wine list is nowhere near as fun as browsing the wine wall though, where bottles are stacked floor to ceiling, each bearing a price scrawled in white chalk. I go for an intriguing geometric label from Havilah ($90) which turns out to be a cool climate Shiraz Malbec from Tassie.

The short one-page menu is divided into small plates, fire, burger and sides. I'm not sure why there's a lone burger on there - I guess it's an option if you're dining alone - but Terra is really meant to be shared. For $79, there's a "feed me" option too.

To start, I can't go past prawn cakes. Two bite-sized morsels of panko-crumbed prawn topped with smoky kingfish pate, horseradish cream and pearls of tangy pink finger lime ($18). It's a perfect mouthful - crunchy, salty and creamy with a gentle zing punctuated by contrasting pops of lime.

The octopus ($29) might just be the best version of octopus I've ever tasted. It's tender and smoky from the grill, scattered amongst cubes of deep fried potato and topped with lashings of creamy aioli, and a splash of acidity that brings it all to life. In the past, I've tested it with a few octopus unbelievers and so far, its record is unbroken.

While I'm not usually one for duck liver pate ($24), here I like how it's perfectly offset by the freshness of compressed melon and a gentle dusting of chilli.

For the main event, there's a range of larger protein-focused plates - chicken, beef, pork and a fish option for pescatarians - each listed with the way they're cooked over fire. We've learnt never to skip the rotisserie chicken ($22 for half, $39 for whole). It seems silly to waste stomach space on chicken, but it's almost magical; the comforting flavours of chicken cooked over coals with a side of Terra's famous hot sauce. I couldn't tell you why it's so good, just that it is. And it goes perfectly with Terra's incredibly moreish brisket fat chips.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - Terra has the best steak in Canberra. I've eaten at many restaurants that call themselves steakhouses, none of which hold a candle to the beef I've had here. The jewel in the Terra crown is the Rolls Royce, which - when you can get it - is a wonderfully marbled piece of Wagyu. But even when you can't, there's almost always a steak on the menu here from eye fillet to tomahawk ($135 a kg).

Although it's easy to get carried away with the meat, I feel compelled to order some vegetables. Iceberg ($13) is served cold and crisp, a crunchy sesame praline and vinegary pickled cucumber slices tossed through. It's refreshing alongside the rich meats.

The cauliflower ($16) is good too - deep fried, with a gentle hum of heat from harissa and finished with crispy fried curry leaves. The sweetness of cauliflower is a nice contrast to the chilli, and there's something about the smell of curry leaves that always makes me happy.

Even when you're unbutton-top-jeans-button-level stuffed, it's impossible to resist the ricotta donuts ($15). They're plump and round, dusted in sugar and served with Jack Daniels honey. Even though I'm about to burst, it's impossible to stop at just one.

There's no question that Terra are the undisputed masters of meat, smoke and fire. That's underselling them though - they're good with vegetables too, and I like the ease with which European and Asian flavours are artfully woven through the small plates and sides. There is a magic in the restrained simplicity of the menu and the laid-back vibe means that it feels like walking into your local. The meat is top quality, the sides are interesting and the wine wall is loads of fun. BYO friends and you're guaranteed good times.

Address: No Name Lane, g2/40 Marcus Clarke St, Canberra

Owners: Anthony Iannelli and Sungyeol Son

Phone: 62304414

Website: terracanberra.com.au

Owners: Anthony Iannelli and Sungyeol Son

Chef: Sungyeol Son

Hours: Breakfast, Monday to Friday, 7.30-11am; Lunch: seven days, 11.30am-3pm; Dinner, seven days, 5-9pm.

Noise: Not a problem

Dietary: Reconsider. I'm not saying you can't be happy but it might make you sad to be vegetarian.

Score: 16/20