Courgette isn't new to Canberra, but its dining room has gotten an update and some new furniture to boot. It's a cosy space; quiet, intimate and good for conversation.
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The restaurant's fixed price menu offers four courses for $88, and there are lots of tempting options, so much so that I manage to negotiate a 50-50 trade deal with my partner who usually only shares his food under sufferance. The dishes are largely French but there are some Asian and Middle Eastern influences sprinkled throughout. If you're feeling hungry, there are add-on sides and an optional cheese course for $22.
Bread rolls are served warm and there's a beautifully plump mound of creamy smoked butter on each table. Great bread and butter are cornerstones of French dining, and when the bread is this good it's usually a sign that a good meal is to follow.
The waiter mentions that the first two courses are on the small side, with the third course being more main sized. Even with that warning, I'm a little surprised that there are only three thumbnail-sized pieces of tuna on my first course. The popcorn prawns are the highlight of the dish, though overall, it is a bit more like eating a tiny portion of a Japanese sashimi bowl than fine dining.
Courgette does the traditional well; beer-battered courgette flower is delightfully crisp, filled with buffalo mozzarella and served with smears of pesto and a vibrant orange carrot gel. The seared scallop is well-cooked, beautifully golden brown on the outside, meaty and sweet served with piped pea puree.
The confit duck leg and sage spatchcock ballotine is pretty on the plate; very Instagram friendly with a smear of black garlic, dots of cauliflower puree and cubes of Persian fetta. It certainly looks the part, but on cutting into the ballotine, I'm concerned at the appearance of the inside which seems undercooked, at least as far as I'm used to seeing. I query the waitress who whisks it away to the kitchen, then brings it back a few minutes later and reassures me that the chef says it is fine and has been cooked sous vide, but if I'm really unhappy he can cook me something else. I opt for the vegetarian option, but I'm left surprised that having given them the opportunity to fix what for me is a problem, the plate has been returned to the table. It doesn't quite fit with the service standards that one would expect at a restaurant of this calibre.
Asian braised pork cheek is rich, served with piped mounds of fennel puree, baby apple, lemon balm and chicken skin crackling.
After the third course, the dishes are starting to seem a little formulaic, a smear, a puree, a protein, a sauce, a crisp for contrast. There are glimpses of brilliance among it all; including the pressed wagyu encased in thin brik pastry and a vibrant and fresh strawberry ice cream. The former was part of the beef tenderloin dish and along with smoked mash, purple baby carrot and a wattle seed jus, while the latter was a nice accompaniment to the lemon myrtle doughnuts.
The wine list has some well thought out choices from local and international regions. The by-the-glass selections are a little limited, but the ones we tried were all interesting and fairly priced. There are some good by-the-bottle options too, though they start to get a bit more expensive.
Courgette is classic fine dining, there's no argument about that; there are smears and purees and piped mounds of gel; all the hallmarks of fine dining, at least food-wise, but may not always deliver the complete experience.
Score: 14/20
Courgette
Address: 54 Marcus Clarke St, Canberra, 6247 4042
Owner: James Moussillon
Chef: James Moussillon
Lunch: Monday to Saturday, noon to 3pm.
Dinner: Monday to Saturday, 6-11pm.
Vegetarian: Yes
Noise: No problem
Wheelchair access: Yes
