At first glance you could be mistaken for thinking this scene was somewhere in the South Pacific. However, if you look closely on the far horizon the forest is a distinct monochrome colour - the tell-tale sign it's recently burned, for this is Eden's Twofold Bay on our South Coast.

Soon, a steady stream of cashed-up Canadians and Americans make their way via a series of shuttles into the main street which, although only 8am, is already bustling. There are long queues at the cafes and spirited artisans are plying their trade on the footpath outside haberdasheries and souvenir shops.

Heck, I can't help but think what a difference a day makes. The thriving town centre is in stark contrast to what we observed on the previous afternoon when we arrived - and when despite being a late summer weekend the town's half dozen or so motels, which usually rejoice in hanging their ''No Vacancy'' signs at this time of year, were all but deserted. And what's more, most of the shops were closed. To say it was a sad sight would be an understatement.

We'd driven to Eden to ''fill our esky'' and also to paddle along the Kiah River (which flows into the southern side of Twofold Bay) with Jenny and Arthur Robb. Regular readers might recall it was this energetic duo who led your akubra-clad columnist along the 32-kilometre Light to Light trek connecting nearby Boyds Tower to the iconic Green Cape Light Station (June 17, 2017). Unfortunately, due to the fire damage, the walk is closed for several months and the Robbs have turned to kayak tours to bolster their coffers. But as luck would have it, recent rain rendered the river temporarily too dangerous to navigate. Talk about a double-whammy. Not only have the Robbs missed out on our patronage (for now) but also so many much needed bookings from the cruise passengers seeking a wilderness adventure.

Thankfully for the Robbs, while four cruise ships were cancelled over January at the height of the fire crisis, several additional cruises have been scheduled to stop at Eden in coming months.

But will a handful of extra cruises save a town? "Probably not", according to Chris Efstathiou of Eden Fish and Chips. "You might make a few hundred [dollars] off a boat that you otherwise wouldn't have, but there is a false sense that the cruise industry will save a town," he says.

And he's right, the cruises do provide a boost for a day, but what Eden really needs is for its visitors to be bolstered by Australians heading to their town for a short break. And that's exactly why the yowie clan are here for the weekend.

We're bunking down in Cocora Cottage B&B, the town's converted historic police station which commands knock-out views over Twofold Bay and where owners Gail and David Ward were hunkered down in January when "the sky turned black", before being evacuated to the wharf. "Only a wind change saved the town," says David.

Not surprisingly, everyone in Eden has either been affected directly or indirectly by the fires, including Paul and Rachel Boyer of nearby Towamba who are carving wooden spoons and bowls for cruise tourists on the main street. One of their biggest sellers are those carved from burnt banksia salvaged from the fires.

"It got to within 150 yards of us, it was terrifying. I've never been so scared in all my life, but we survived and it's bought the community of Towamba, Eden, and other towns all much closer together," says Rachel.

"Our neighbour wasn't so lucky, she left with only the clothes on her back, her dog and a pumpkin," says Rachel.

Despite the public push for Canberrans to visit the South Coast in numbers to support fire-affected communities, disappointingly, during our visit there was a distinct lack of Y plates, especially in Eden.

The Canberra Day Long Weekend is only a week away (March 7-9). Now, I know it's usually a time to celebrate everything about our own city, but wouldn't it be great if instead, for this year at least, Canberrans flocked to the coast, from Nowra in the north to Eden in the south, in record numbers.

The influx of tens of thousands of Canberrans for a long weekend,will help the broader coast much more than a handful of extra cruise ships at one port. Not only would it inject funds into the empty pockets of businesses, but also show that as a city we continue to care about these bushfire-affected communities as they enter the rebuild phase.

We eventually did manage to ''fill our esky'' with coastal goodies, but as we drove the long route home via Batemans Bay and observed the destruction of vast swathes of forest and of course the heartbreak in villages like Cobargo and Mogo, we left the coast with heavy hearts.

On a more positive note, the Robbs are now back up and running their kayak tours on the Kiah River. We're already packing for the Canberra Day Long Weekend. Are you?

With milder weather and warmer water, autumn is traditionally the best time to visit the south and far south coast. There are many businesses in Eden and surrounds who would love to welcome Canberrans in coming months. Here's some of the places we went.

Take me there: Eden is a 3.5-hour drive from Canberra via Cooma and Nimmitabel.

Kiah Wilderness Adventures: Morning kayak tours from $99pp. Ph 0429-961-047 or www.kiahwildernesstours.com.au

Cocora Cottage B &B: Originally built as Eden's first police station, this sandstone landmark commands expansive views over Twofold Bay where, in season you can look out for humpbacks and also the occasional Southern Right whale while enjoying a glass of wine. Historic Cocora Cottage is at 2 Cocora Street, Eden. From $160 per night per double. www.cocoracottage.com or call 0409-961-241. Look out for the depression in the stone outside the kitchen - it is apparently the result of a century of knife and sword sharpening by the local constabulary. Really!

Eden Fish and Chips: Traditional fish 'n chips. 160 Imlay Street, Eden.

Don't miss: The Eden Smokehouse (20 Weecoon Street). Feast on artisan gourmet foods including the local specialty, wood-smoked sardines. www.edensmokehouse.com.au

Best Beach: Cocora Beach, Eden. With its headlands festooned with lush vegetation and watched over by the looming peak of Mt Imlay, when viewed from the sea, you could easily be excused for thinking this beach was in the Whitsundays and not a stone's throw from the southern tip of Eden. This hidden gem boasts plenty of shaded picnic tables, free gas barbecues and a knockout playground. The water here is usually calm enough to paddle in and the kids will especially love the scramble over the coloured rocks at the southern headland. If you are feeling energetic, step out on the Bundian Way to Keef's Pinch (one hour, mostly flat, but one steep section) that lures you along the cliffs of Twofold Bay, providing magical views south and past ancient shell middens.

Did You Know: Plans are afoot to revamp Eden's landmark, but long-closed, Australasian Hotel. Watch this space.

CONTACT TIM: Email: timtheyowieman@bigpond.com or Twitter: @TimYowie or write c/- The Canberra Times, 9 Pirie St, Fyshwick.

Cryptic Clue: Divine intervention

Degree of difficulty: Medium

Last week: Congratulations to Annette Fusitua of McKellar who was first to correctly identify the location of last week's photo as the colourful facade of a house on the Princes Highway in Eden. "It's on the right-hand side of the highway when heading south through town," reveals Annette, whose six-year-old has nick-named it ''The Candy House''. Annette, a first-time winner of this competition, just beat Janice Efford of Hawker to the prize.

How to enter: Email your guess along with your name and address to timtheyowieman@bigpond.com. The first email sent after 10am, Saturday February 29, 2020 Will WIN A DOUBLE PASS TO DENDY CINEMA - THE HOME OF QUALITY CINEMA.

Many of the towns en route to the coast have also struggled for business in recent months, so when driving down the Clyde or Brown Mountain for some salt-water therapy this autumn, be sure to stop off for a cuppa and pie in places like Braidwood, Nelligen, Bemboka and Nimmitabel.

In fact, while driving through Nimmitabel earlier this week, I was buoyed to see Noggin, a new café operating out of a small shopfront opposite the historic Royal Arms Cobb and Co guesthouse. The brainchild of creators of start-up ''Canberra Treasure Hunt'', owners Jordon and his part-time model wife Inna Morton have gone all out to create a quirky cafe, complete with a recycled hardwood counter and bespoke goods ranging from handmade Russian perfumes to a taxidermied European badger from Germany. Really!

"We're more than just a café," says Inna, who hopes Noggin will be the next successful chapter in the revitalisation of the town, which already sports a lolly shop, café, bakery and pub.

During my visit, a steady stream of travellers were lining up for their coffee fix, however, the lack of an indoor seating area may become a challenge when Nimmitabel's bracing winters arrive.