Time feels like it is standing still in many parts of Morocco. The old walls around the city's medinas, built to protect them from attack, are now protecting them from the march of modernity.
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The new is creeping in - traditional riads converted into luxurious accommodation, hip cafes on rooftops overlooking bustling squares, and big-name museums celebrating the international influence of more recent periods (Marrakech's Yves Saint Laurent Museum being the best example) - but you never forget you're in North Africa when travelling through Morocco.
The iconic experiences are also some of the most enjoyable. Wandering through the colourful markets (souks) amongst lanterns, carpets, and slightly-too-enthusiastic vendors. Getting lost in the maze of alleyways in a city's historic centre, stumbling upon mosques and madrasas. Lifting up the lid of a tagine to reveal the steaming meal that has been slow cooking away for hours.
But one of the great joys of Morocco is the breadth and variety of places to see. It's more than just Fez and Marrakech, more nuanced than just mountains and desert. I think a more rewarding trip to Morocco also includes some of these fascinating (but not as well known) destinations.
Ait Ben Haddou
The old fortress town of Ait Ben Haddou hugs the slope of a small hill in the desert a few hours from Marrakech. An imposing outer wall made from a muddy clay surrounds the collection of homes and businesses also made from the same earthen substance.
Exploring the warren of paths inside the town reveals another part of its defences - dead ends - although it's been a while since anyone has invaded. Ait Ben Haddou was once an important stop on a caravan trading route, but now it's often used as backdrop for films and TV shows.
El Jadida
The modest port city of El Jadida is a popular beachside retreat for Moroccans, with lovely beaches, seafood restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere. And, while that may also be attractive for foreign visitors, I think the most interesting thing in El Jadida is the old fortress of Mazagan.
The high walls of the compound on the water's edge look like cliffs with waves crashing at their feet. The impressive fortification was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century as an outpost on their trading route down the west coast of Africa. They handed it back to the Moroccans in 1769 but left booby traps that exploded at the main entrance!
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Chefchaouen
Up in the cooler mountains, the small town of Chefchaouen would always have been a nice respite from the bustle of nearby Tangier. But what brings the crowds (and their cameras) these days is the blue hue that now adorns most of the town's buildings.
Dark blue, light blue, dull blue, vibrant blue - almost every surface has been painted and at times it can feel like you're under the water or in a disco. The actual aim was to make it feel like the sky (and closer to heaven), which is why the Jewish population who moved here in the mid-1900s started the project.
Atlas Studios
Morocco may be a long way from Hollywood but Atlas Studios, in the city of Ouarzazate, claims to be the largest movie studio in the world by area. What allows it to make this boast are the enormous sets built in the desert here. Rather than demolish them when filming is done, they are kept for other productions and the next set is constructed in another patch of sand.
It's easy to visit Atlas Studios to walk amongst the sets that have been used for movies like Gladiator, Kundun, The Mummy and The Kingdom of Heaven, where you'll realise why the Moroccan landscape and light are perfect for those worlds.
Rabat
Morocco's capital is not nearly as popular as other cities, but there's a charm hidden beneath its layers of government infrastructure. In fact, the different styles that have developed here during various eras are the main reason it's been named a World Heritage Site.
Majestic citadels and mosques from as early as the 12th century define the historic part of Rabat, while the French period in the 1900s has left grand imperial palaces. Even the wide boulevards and modern office buildings constructed more recently add to the urban landscape.
Volubilis
Well before any of Morocco's cities were beginning to take their current shape, the Romans established a settlement here, on the far edge of their empire. The outpost, known as Volubilis, grew in size because it was located amongst fertile agricultural land, and within a few generations there were huge monuments, including a basilica and a triumphal arch.
Although Volubilis is now in ruins, there's lots to see on the site, with the remains of walls and columns giving you a good sense of how it once looked. It's also a reminder that there's much more to Morocco than just the medinas and the markets.
You can see more things to do in Morocco on Michael's Time Travel Turtle website.
Michael Turtle
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
