Such is the thundering marvel, that when US First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt visited Iguazu Falls in 1944, she is said to have simply exclaimed, "Poor Niagara!".
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An apocryphal story it might be, but the sentiment is as close to the truth as you can get. The South American waterfall complex may only get a tenth of the visitors as Niagara Falls, but it surpasses it in almost every other way. Truly one of the world's greatest natural wonders, it's a destination everyone should consider visiting one day.
From a river running along the border of Brazil and Argentina, you hear Iguazu Falls before you see them. The sound of the constant crashing of water sneaks up on you, slowly increasing in volume as you get closer, until you abruptly realise it's drowning out the cheeps and chirps of the birds and insects around you.
The path to reach the falls starts in the surrounding jungle and I follow the meandering path through the trees until finally they part and the cascading curtains reveal themselves. It doesn't matter how many images you've already seen of Iguazu, nothing can prepare you for this moment. Around me I see other visitors all the same - footsteps faltering, exclamations of surprise, eyes full of awe.
What makes the sound of the water so deafening is that it's not just one waterfall, but a series of up to 275 of them (the exact number changes depending on rainfall) cascading over every part of a long canyon. Together they create the world's largest and most visually impressive waterfall complex, taller than North America's Niagara Falls and much wider than Africa's Victoria Falls.
From the air (on one of the helicopter sightseeing flights, for instance), you would see the upper part of the river flooding to an enormous two-kilometre-wide lake that dramatically falls into a narrow chasm in one corner. But from the path along the lower part of the river, the view is of the rows of white chutes tumbling over the cliffs on both sides, forming a misty auditorium almost 1.5 kilometres long for the symphony of water. And, walking along the path to the end, you'll reach the mightiest of the falls, named the Devil's Throat, with something certainly demonic about the fervour with which tens of thousands of litres of water tumble over the edge every second.
Iguazu Falls is more than just a landmark that you pop into as you're passing through. It's 1,000 kilometres from Buenos Aires and 1,200 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro, so many visitors will come by plane especially to see the site. Once here, I would recommend two days to see it properly - one day on the Argentinian side and one on the Brazilian. Doing both on the same day is difficult, with a 40-kilometre drive between the two entrances, plus the hassle of an international border crossing.
The Argentinian side of Iguazu Falls is nothing short of breathtaking, with about 80 per cent of the waterfalls. Paths take you up close to the cascades, and from this side, you can even take a boat ride underneath some of the falls and right into the action (where you're guaranteed to get wet, I can attest!). Metres from these incredible torrents, you'll feel the enormous power of the water.
From the Brazilian side, though, you get the overview of the whole waterfall complex and, for me, this is where the real marvel lies. It's when you realise the scale of not just the individual cascades, but the entire system, that you truly appreciate this experience - the white animation of the water contrasting with the brown cliffs, the striking clouds on the blue sky mimicking the colour of the water, and the green of the jungle bringing it all together.
Speaking of the jungle, giving yourself extra time to explore Iguazu Falls allows you to venture a bit deeper into the surrounding national parks to try to spot rare animals like jaguars, giant otters, and giant anteaters. Because, as well as the scale being unlike any other waterfall on earth, the effect of the almost-permanent spray in the air is felt across the ecosystem, with lush and dense flora flourishing and attracting more than 400 bird species to the 80 types of trees.
On either side of the border are cities for accommodation, with Brazil's Foz do Iguau about three times the size of Argentina's Puerto Iguaz. If you have the choice, I would recommend the Argentinian side, where you'll find better and more affordable hotel options and a more relaxed atmosphere.
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If you're feeling particularly adventurous, there's also a border crossing from Foz do Iguau into Paraguay, a country where tourists seldom step. While there are actually some interesting things to see in other parts of Paraguay, the border town of Ciudad del Este is better known as a haven for black market trade and criminal enterprises. Visitors with limited time might be better off just focusing on Iguazu Falls (although I did enjoy the chaos of the city's tax-free shopping areas).
A trip to South America can often be a daunting thing to plan, with so much to potentially see, and never enough time to do it all... but this is one place to prioritise.
Even if you think you've already seen some of the biggest and best waterfalls in the world, just remember what Eleanor Roosevelt said. Poor Niagara, it's got nothing on Iguazu!
You can see more about visiting Iguazu Falls on Michael's Time Travel Turtle website.
Michael Turtle
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in television to travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-known places, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
