Restaurant review: Natural Nine at Casino Canberra worth placing a bet on

Although there isn't a clock in sight, it's lunchtime at Natural Nine, which is tucked away in the back left corner of the plush red carpeted room. I'm wondering if myself and my lunch mate, the Asian restaurant aficionado "Mike" might be the only ones here today for lunch.

But the sky is bursting with sunshine, Floriade visitors are everywhere, and the restaurant is already half full with UC graduates who are lunching with their families in their graduation gowns. There is a vibe of optimism and new opportunity in the dining room from people have made their own luck.

We take a window seat next to private room "no 8", and it appears that we are here for a one woman show today as a solo waitress runs the floor. This can sometimes be a concern, but our host doesn't miss a beat, fluttering between the six tables large and small and dividing her time equitably between the gown clad, the suits and the T-shirt wearing tables. The room is light and airy, and although this isn't exactly Monte Carlo, there is a feeling of sophistication in a Glebe Park kind of way.

Chicken and wakeme dumplings come as a plate of five ($12) and although this place is all about odds and evens, I do find it slightly odd that they don't deal us an even number of dumplings. But they are deliciously hand made, stuffed with plump chicken mince and have a lively crunch to them from the wakeme. Ancient Chinese texts refer to this mineral rich nutrient, noting that "there is no swelling that is not relieved by seaweed" and indeed we may well be on a pathway to swell our bellies, rather than our wallets, just a little.

Grilled sesame four quarter lamb chops ($18) are well grilled and high margin but also great value. Made up of many cuts including the neck, shank and shoulder rack, this economical cut is best slow cooked and is braised Chinese style before being seared on the grill and then rolled in light a sesame dressing.

The wine list is short and antipodean, with the exception of some decent French Champagne, but rather than our usual Tuesday lunchtime Dom, we each spring into a glass of Forrest Estate Riesling, limey and slatey, with searing acidity and a very safe bet for this style of food.

Typhoon duck and shallot fried rice ($24) is light and fluffy, and I'll take an educated punt that perhaps the name is derived from the fact it used to be served on the small fishing boats that took refuge in the typhoon shelters; a specialty of restaurants in the Wan Chai district in Hong Kong. Dusted with fried garlic and shallots, it's a great base for the Hu Nam beef with wild mushrooms and lap cheong ($36).

The beef is tender and tossed gloriously through the wok, studded with juicy sliced mushrooms and a full hand of sliced Chinese sausage. This all sits atop of a mound of Brussels sprouts, which would be a sound idea given their subtle wasabi like character, if not for the fact that we have ordered a side dish of fried brussel sprouts with Chinese pickles ($10).

Perhaps they were on special, but the double up does not give us the return on our investment today. It's slightly ironic that we throw down a couple of Save Our Souls Pinots ($13) from Mornington. This brilliant value, crimson coloured and perfumed pinot is a full of ripe, crunchy strawberry and cherry flavours. Time to quit whilst we are well ahead.

Dessert is always a gamble on a Tuesday. Our Asian tiramisu ($15) has the feel of an Italian "pick me up", but the main elements are sago and sweetcorn. This is probably leaning towards a Vietnamese type of creation, but somehow it works, with the juiciness of the corn puncturing the subtle sweet and softly textured sago.

The white chocolate chilli pudding with vanilla ice cream and milk crumb ($15) is a cracker. Drawing its inspiration from the traditional English bread pudding, there is a streak of chilli running through the middle of each mouthful but finishing with the sweetness of white chocolate. This could well become a new addiction.

Natural Nine is a little bit different, fun, and if you can keep your hands in your pockets on the way out, very good value for money.

Address: Canberra Casino, 1 Binara Street, City

Phone: 62577074

Website: casinocanberra.com.au

Hours: Seven days, noon til 3pm, 6-9pm. Yum cha Fridays from noon til 3pm

Chef: Jason Kok

Noise: Minimal

Dietary: Options available