Restaurant review: Snapper & Co at the Canberra Yacht Club is a family-friendly venue

Families gather on the grassy lawns; young people mingle in The Courtyard listening to live music; there's a la carte service on The Deck, an undercover outside area with a fabulous fireplace with breakfast on the weekends. It quickly became one of Canberra's top lakeside destinations.

But tonight we're the only ones here.

A few people are waiting to pick up takeaway when we first arrive at 7pm and an hour later some lads, who could be in their pyjamas, come in five minutes before the kitchen is about to close up for a late feed.

It's kind of a weird sensation but not quite as weird as you'd think. The staff are friendly but leave us alone; there's a great soundtrack playing and occasionally we find ourselves singing along; it's warm where we're tucked into a little corner table with some banquette seating along one wall.

I had actually booked a table outside on The Deck, thinking a night by the fire might be nice but my companions neglected to bring appropriate clothing so the waiter suggests we sit inside.

On The Deck our table was set with a tablecloth, with cutlery and wine glasses, and what looked like tealights, as we walk past. It looked rather pretty in the dark of night, with the fire flickering.

We're warned there's no a la carte service inside and we'll have to order via QR codes or at the bar. We're okay with that. More and more it seems to be the norm. But I'm unsure if I'm a fan of QR code ordering. I understand it, the logistics, the post-COVID applications of it, but hospitality is about people, and if ordering face-to-face can keep some young person in paid employment then I will continue to order at the counter for as long as I can.

It comes as no surprise seafood is the focus here. The only meat on the menu comes via a charcuterie board to share, some spicy salami on a pizza, and the burger selection offers options of wagyu, pulled pork and fried chicken.

But we're here for the seafood and decide to share a few things. And this is where the fact that it's empty becomes really hard to understand. The food was really good. OK, it's no fine-dining restaurant and the selection is somewhat limited, but why isn't the place full of families looking for an easy, and tasty, midweek dinner? Perhaps the rising cost of living is affecting people more than we'd like to think.

We start with some South Coast oysters ($23 for a half dozen) and they're plump and juicy, salty and fresh.

Next are a couple of little plates of crumbed calamari ($16.50 for five pieces) and crumbed prawns cutlets ($16.50 for four pieces) and these are a highlight. I reckon all restaurants should be judged on how they treat squid rings. How often have you bitten into a tough little rubber band surrounded by tasteless crumb? Too often for my liking. These ones are great. The panko crumb is golden and crisp and stays put on the thick tender rings.

The prawn cutlets too are full of meat and so retro. I could eat a whole basketful of these and indeed they are on the mains menu, with chips, for $20.

It's a bit hard to go past a pizza too. The gamberi is a great choice, the tomato sauce has a little chilli kick to it and the base itself is crispy around the edges and just the right thickness. There's only one garlicy prawn on each slice, but it's a nice balance.

The grilled tiger prawns with lemon butter ($34) aren't quite what I expected, served with chips and a little side salad. I kind of pictured them in a bowl with some pasta or something but nevertheless it's a generous portion (250g) and their delightfully buttery.

I wonder whether there's an economy of scale that would get some pasta dishes on the menu, or a prawn risotto or something, something that would elevate that lovely spot with a la carte service out near the fire. Still, it's a simple menu done very well.

Indeed the fish burger ($22) epitomises that. We declare it the best fish burger we've ever had. Rather than a processed patty, it's a battered piece of fish, angled edges sticking out of the soft bun, surrounded by lettuce and sliced tomato and a creamy tartare sauce.

And what is fish without chips? The ones on offer here are thick, fluffy on the inside and golden and crisp on the outside and there's plenty on every plate.

There are a few dessert choices. We share a vanilla panna cotta ($13.50) and a salted caramel and milk chocolate mousse ($13.50). While the mousse is a little heavy and rich, the panna cotta is fresh and a delightful consistency with a depth of vanilla that hits the spot.

I'm imagining how good a summer evening with a wine and a bowl of prawn cutlets and some chips might be. Such a night seems far away as we move into a Canberra winter. Perhaps Snapper & Co is just the place to go over the next few months for a little taste of summer.

Address: Southern Cross Yacht Club, Mariner Pl, Yarralumla

Phone: 6273 1784

Website: https://snapperandco.com.au/

Hours: Seven days, 11am til 8pm. Weekend breakfasts, 8am-11am

Chef: Brad Howden

Noise: No problem

Dietary: A few options, notes on menu