But two years since the start of the pandemic, it has long remained just a wish at many of Canberra's venues.

The 'shadow lockdown' of the Omicron wave of COVID-19 is keeping hesitant diners away. And many of those who turn up are pushing to sit outdoors.

Temporada head chef and owner Mr Young said the city centre had been "next-level" quiet.

"The city is just so dead. Overall, it's been pretty dire - we've been trading at about 50 per cent through January," he said.

Since the start of the pandemic in early 2020, the hospitality industry has been hit hard by the effects of lockdowns, density limits and concern over high levels of community transmission.

But with the February 18 announcement removing density limits for ACT venues, and the most recent announcement from the government detailing the end of mask-wearing across Canberra, prospects have changed for restaurants. Signs the ACT is shifting towards pre-COVID conditions have never been clearer.

The Italian Place co-owner Tony Lo Terzo said the removal of masks would bring back a sense of positivity to diners.

"It creates an environment that is back to normality," he said.

"If we're wanting to go back to normal, we have to create a sense that people are accepting that. Masks do not create that sense."

The sudden removal of restrictions still doesn't remove the impact of COVID-cautious diners on business.

Mr Lo Terzo has noticed the impact Omicron has had on his restaurant in recent months.

"After the first COVID lockdown, I think people were really relieved. But the second time, it's definitely different," he said.

He said his regulars were more cautious about sitting inside the restaurant, due to the chance of catching the highly infectious Omicron variant.

"I have three tables that come every Tuesday. Last week, two insisted on sitting outside. Not because it's summer, but because they're still scared," he said.

The need for more outdoor seating to meet this demand is something recognised by Spice Affair director Rajesh Malhodra. He said his requests had been met with obstruction by the government.

"Sometimes it's so windy and rainy and we only have uncovered outdoor seating. I've spoken to the council, but they said they aren't giving permission for people to do that," Mr Malhodra said.

"If we had more covered outdoor capacity we could take more bookings."

It isn't just restaurants who have felt the impact of COVID caution. Even with protests in Canberra over the past two weeks bringing hoards of travellers into the city, Australian Hotels Association ACT general manager Anthony Brierley said this hadn't provided an anticipated increase in business.

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"I'd love to say that from the convoy coming to town, one good thing is them staying in hotels and injecting money into the local economy," he said.

"But unfortunately they've been camping and seem to be spending as little money as possible."

Mr Young said restaurateurs across the ACT had been yearning for a sense of normality, which was close to becoming a reality.

"Cafes and restaurants have been on their knees for two years, but now we just want to feed people," he said.

Mr Melahodra added how grateful his industry was to the Canberra community for continuing to stick by it through the ups and downs of the pandemic.

"We are always thankful to the Canberra community, for helping us survive through the tough times. Hopefully it is going to get better, day by day," he said.

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